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I'm trying to rotate an exhaust camshaft to position the groove to be able to fit the Renault horseshoe tool as part of a timing belt change. I think it flipped 180 degrees and is giving lots of resistance getting it back round. Is there a correct way to turn it back, e.g. clockwise or anti...

Taking off and landing every day from J17 these days. I work in Bristol (though hating the M4 as it's crazy fast these days). I was recommended that crane by another off here and it's fine.

Same as mine, works fine (slight hydraulic leak but nothing major). Packs away tidy enough. You're welcome to see it in action in a week or so (just realised what a dull offer that is though!). I'm in Chippenham and the Ph1 engine is coming out for new belts and gearbox change.

Mine has made a noise when setting off for the last six years that I put down to the suspension. I suspect the outer ARB bush that should be greased, but might be wrong.

Thanks for confirming. Halfords on had 3/8 versions. Cheers

Sounds about right - I don't want to buy a whole set that's all. Thanks.

As the title says please, anyone know what size they are - 8 perhaps?

Sorry about that! Stupid computer!!

Was it supposed to be a full set of hoses? This is what it should look like...

I suspect you will go down the same road many on here have been down before and you won't listen to advice :slap:.

Throttle and clutch cables are a different matter. Perhaps we need a sticky for what is ok and what's not ok to buy non Renault.

It depends what you mean by, benefit. There is little to gain from this engine unless as you probably know you pay £££s (for cams or throttle bodies) and for that you can buy a faster car in standard form.

Does any one know why this happens? I disconnected the ABS sensor and it made no difference. I disconnected the speedo sensor and the idle speed returns to normal. I replaced the sensor and it still does it. It seems to be something else that's controlling the idle when the wheels move and is...

I reckon the ICV is the issue. The other two sensors pull out very easily from the plenum and are not held in. When I changed my ICV (a genuine Renault part) it was stuck on 5k rpm. A bit of trial and error poking with a screw driver plus some spray oil sorted it (not recommended though, perhaps...

I bought a version by Laser and the flippin bit seems too big, T50. Does anyone know what the bit size should be? The ghetto styley jubilee clip trick had to be used, again!

Pretty pointless. On my Ph1 the change was at best 'slight' with an ITG filter. I wouldn't bother.

Never had to do one but small screwdriver at the base and lever it out (according to the owners manual). Fuel rail guard protects, well the fuel rail - it's in front of the injectors on the inlet manifold and is held on by two 10mm nuts (or one 10mm and one 13mm on some). Removing it requires a...

Oh, if I wiggle the same wire the idle gets smoother - all linked.

Mine died on the M54 heading towards Wales (was it trying to tell me something). I did a series of wiggle tests on the engine wiring and it showed it was the big red wire at fault - the one attached to the centre of the alternator. Probably caused by my rough handling of the loom when I changed...

Same. Cost was £111.06 for a set of eight exhaust valves and slightly less for the inlet valve set on my 2009 version of Dialogys. Colletts, springs and all the other parts are extra.

I'd say if it settles after blipping the throttle then it's the throttle body or the throttle cable that's faulty. On mine it was permanently up at 1500 rpm until I replaced the idle control valve and now it's sorted.

Milage adds hp until they get to be as old as mine (168,000) then they drop a bit.

Must be the air filter ;)

That sounds really useful and it's just what I need. I seem to be destroying ICVs currently (either that or the old ones I've got lying around were duff anyway!) and I've got a bad CAT smell. If you were close to home (Chippenham) I'd be getting mine booked in now. Cheers

For £40 you can get the power tested and you'll know for certain - Surrey Rolling Road is just to the east of you!

I know where you're coming from and I hope your project goes well. I have a 172 phase 1 and a Subaru. If I drive the Clio like a hooligan then it goes ok (but only ok). Driving the Subaru though is a dream, it's the lack of power of the Clio that's letting it down. I haven't had the Clio...

Got the cloth version fitted on mine. Bought from Merlin Motorsport at Castle Combe. Working just fine for several months and easy to fit using the bulkhead bolts/screws. Cheaper than the other stuff.

The clutch is light on my Ph1 172 compared to the clutch on my previously Mark 1 Clio. I tested a 172 when it was new in 2000 it felt very light at the time. My original clutch lasted 140,000 miles before I got it replaced and did it more out of curiosity (it still had some material left). It...

I bought some heat resistant metal/material stuff from Merlin Motorsport over at Castle Combe and put that on instead. Looks better and I can easily take it off to replace the throttle cable and clutch cable (which I seem to do quite often with my Ph1).

Good luck. I've been trying for five years to fix this problem on my Ph1. Over this time I bought four second hand throttle bodies (paying £10 for each one so no great shakes!). I rebuilt one throttle body (taking it apart and polishing/lubricating it), I also replaced the Idle Control Valve...