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Don't bother. Use the proper stuff, the orange (or copper) silicon flange sealant - they sell it at Halfords, it costs about £4 and it's made by Loctite. It works, too! I had the same problem, it's now sorted.
Might have been me, I couldn't decide what colour to have next so bought both (and a Trophy!). Might get a Vee, too.
Glorious day on Sunday, must have been packed. As a local I tend to avoid it and go to Budleigh beach as it's quieter (there's also naked women at Budleigh on the nuddie beach!).
A Ph1 172 was reported by Reno to weigh 1035 kg and the 172 Cup was 1021 kg. The Cup was reported to weigh 80 kg less than the Ph2 172. So save some weight by perhaps stripping the aircon out of your Sunflower version and fitting lighter weight wheels.
The suspension is diff as stated and the...
Laura reckons it's less MPG with 95. So I suppose I just need to try it and see!
As you say not much of a saving, but I just cannot stand to give 'em any more money than I have to.
Thanks
I'm thinking of not using 97/98 Ron fuel at the moment to save a bit of money (and so not give as much money to the government in tax!) and to instead use bog standard 95 Ron. Does anyone think this is will matter - to the engine or to peformance very much or at all? It's a 172 Ph1.
Cheers
I've got a Ph1 172 and the cam belt has now covered 50k miles since it was changed. Would you be wanting to change it if it was your's or is it ok for a while longer. The recommended frequency for changing the cam belt is 75K miles.
My exhaust is blowing at the back of the centre silencer roughly below the front seats. I'm thinking of getting it welded to sort it once and for all - it's only blowing through a seam. Do you think they can do it on the car without having to remove it? It's got the heat shield above it so...
(edit: could be I'm not driving it hard enough, though. But if I'm trying, I usually get loads of understeer on turn in. Which also maybe a result of my driving. )
It sounds as though you are approaching the corners too fast. If you go into a corner at a slightly slower speed, you'll get more...
Plenty of threads already, do a search and you'll see.
I only know how to do it on a 172 ph1. Remove the throttle body (held on with 4 star screws and renew the gasket when you put it back on) and unclip the throttle position sensor, clean it by spraying it inside with carb cleaner (protect...
Is it idling ok? If it isn't then read my post about the ICV (idle control valve). They cost just over £60, main dealer only and usually have to be ordered (only takes one day or so).
Probably not by using my flippin' great screwdriver method. I'm sure there's a correct way to do it. I'd be tempted to take it to a Renault specialist (independent specialist) who's got the right kit.
I just levered the inside bit upwards so it almost closed the gap. Touch wood, it does seem ok.
I must have got lucky then when I altered it by eye, it seems to be working now. Phew, thought I'd just blown 60 quid on the cost of the new ICV - and much more worried that it might indicate throttle body wear and another big cost.
Cheers
I fitted a new idle control valve (ICV) today because my idling speed kept bouncing about between 1000 and 1500 ish rmp. I'd cleaned my old ICV a few times and just got sick at it not working 100%. But when I fitted a new ICV the revs went straight to 5000 rpm and stayed there! I took it out and...
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173139_langId_-1_categoryId_121715
This one, 5920. Mine looks different but this is the stuff, Loctite 5920.