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Cold engine, spray on some all purpose cleaner (Megs APC, G101, AutoGlym Engine and Machine Cleaner), aggitate with a couple of detailing brushes, ideally rinse on a low pressure, but if you're worried, damp cloth and wipe over.
Treat the metal as you would your exhaust (metal polish), the...
Sound as a pound. My receptionist is away today, so have asked the others to keep an eye out.
Nice order :)
I did the same years ago. Scratch with a squeegy and went mad with the PC7424 and then the various other machines I bought and sold. Realised that having a wing/awkward angles test...
Finger nail deep lad. No point round off the edges, it's not a UDS. These are broken lacqer and the the wing is down to plastic. I need to build layers, wet sand the round paint surface and then attack it with the rotary.
Wing is likely to be delivered soon via CS user hopefully! But interested in thoughts on the door as that's the one I know I can fix and hence pisses me off more!
Yeah I've priced up a "breaking spares and repairs" wing on eBay. £60 delivered, good condition (no scratches, swirls I can deal wid).
It's the door that royally f***s me off. So you'd advice MF applicator with paint? Wipe over a few times and then polish up, thus removing excess paint from...
Just to point out, Ive found something like Jeffs Prime/Strong works and removes grime both before and after polishing. So depending on how much time, money and concentration you have... oh look a fly.
Anyway, you *could* wet routine incl fallout, clay, cleanse (prime), polish (3M etc)...
As I can't text you this little lot, and DW is shite at the mo for your username;
Hi guys,
I've read the stone chip and scratch threads on here (thanks to Russ/Reflectology) but just wanted a last bit of advice.
I have the following scratches from when some kind young chaps slid across my...
The filters work well, but I believe can run out quite quickly once you start washing your car often and thus can get expensive. As the gent above me has suggested, water butts are the best method.
A good idea and worth trying everything on it, from swirl and RDS removal to stone chip and scratch repair, wet sanding, painting etc. Well worth it.
And don't stop at correction - think about IPA wipe downs, LSP trials (wax1 vs wax2), which glaze works best etc.
Quick point, as Dave has pointed out, worth asking/know what Cup side strips are made of/covered in. They are unlacquered/matt lacquered. So you might find they're actually damaged, not just "polished up".
Most people get them resprayed and lacquered properly.
1. Use when dry - if used with water it dilutes the effects, so won't be as effective
2. spray on, leave it to work but don't let it dry, wash off - if being used on wheels, you can agitate it but it shouldn't need it
3.De-tar, de-iron, wash, clay