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Its actually barring the hydraulic clutch pretty much exactly the same tbh, probs a bit easier than when I pulled the box out of my 1.6 (twice! but thats another story). More room once the subframes out the way anyway from what I remember. This is unfortunately why :( After removing it all...

Its only mechano on steriods! Just need to remember its a dictatorship, not a democracy. It will bow down ;)

Yeh easy enough to fit bumper off job etc. Should be able to get a decent 2nd hand one for not a great deal of monies.

If you're f**king about with a cars electrics why do people not disconnect the battery? I mean how hard is it. basics.

Was it the bit by the radiator? That'll be the condensor, or the bit bolted to the engine? That'll be the compressor.

Well decided to take a day off work today and bite the bullet :dapprove:. You'll have to forgive me for the lack of photos but was all on my own so was more concentrated on the job in hand! A far far too familiar sight these days. Stripped the ecu/battery tray/airbox out and some of the loom...

If you've got the anti-tamper(ish) cover off then the connector should just come off if you've pulled the red slide out.

If it doesn't go together in 5 minutes your doing something wrong. Got a pic?

In all fairness ignoring the we won't quote you bit, its always going to be a good chunk difference considering a ph1 is 9/10 years old and worth peanuts against a 3.5yr old car tops which is worth at least 10k. I pay £800 all mods declared, 22 5ncb which I thought was fine given the situation...

Anytime pal, not that far from you either. Just give me a shout whenever you want it doing. :)

You can hear it rythmically ticking when your under the car and its running, sound comes from the bellhousing mines been doing it since last autumn time when I first noticed it. As the clutch itself has no damping in it like a normal one as it all should be done by a healthy flywheel it'll give...

Then all was going so well until on the way home from said meet the clutch decided its had enough at life and started to slip :(, 52k on it and its been mapped since 28k so its possibly just worn out and hopefully not just not up to the job of handling the extra torque from the map as there...

Up early saturday morning and out for a brilliant day with the MS lot for an RR day at tour de force. GG4P0t_xhEI tX0s3Q9cWUQ FVyuvAQP2yk _EgdTO9flTI

Then a few months when by before it decided it felt the need to invade my wallet again :dapprove:. Front brakes this time, and I though the rears weren't cheap :eek:. Originals looking less than healthy. Especially the outside pad for some reason. Now after seeing this was expecting to...

Then turned my focus to the rear brakes which were far than brilliant condition really so chucked a new set of rear discs and pads on. The obligitory comparison shot. Plently left in those youf! New discs on, carrier on and new pads fitted. Before any eagle eyed person says yes I...

Well haven't updated this in a while but its been busy consuming vast ammounts of my time and money ever since, just got to the age where a good few parts needed replacing so just had to get to it! (including a not so expected major one i'm tackling next week which i'll get to :mad:). Well it...

And a swine to get to/out.

If its not the immob then i'd go with TDC alllllll day long.

Have you got the scangauge working? People have had trouble with using them in ph1s.

:o i'd been at work all day is my only excuse.

Can't flush the rad though without taking the thermostat out? Know where your coming from though probably best to change it if you're splitting the housing known a few to leak afterwards with the old thermostat back in. edit: Ignore me, just take the top rad hose off!

Just the B section, its easy peasy don't worry.

This tbh, jesus H christ how did the drivers side front happen too. Its right fecking next to you!

No real cheap options for getting one that'll be reliable for a while to come imo, all the scrapper ones are an unknown quantity really. Remove the righthand skuttle panel cover and you'll be looking it at it. Its the thing on the righthand side with the 5 pin plug.

Still bet its the fan speed pwm control pack.

Works brilliantly in my experience, I don't bother dropping the pressure to 20psi though find it needs a bit more than that tbh.

Small 1/4" drive ratchet and a 7mm socket for the jubilee clip screw, and doing it blind. Its easy peasy though sounds harder than it really is.

Rear bumper is a piece of cake to take off, i'd go down that route.

They're used in the Mk1 MR2 for a start, unsure on others.

Re: What can you tlle me about the Clio Authentique 1.2? Does the immobiliser light go out when it won't start first of all? Probably better if it does tbh as at least they're things you can fix without a clip machine. Swap you a wash for a fix ;). (god knows it needs one) I concur.