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I'm thinking the same thing Danny is, and theres probably a good bit of bent suspension too. Kerbs are the devil, you're going to wish you'd nailed that pheasant :(.

Theres a lot of air in the system by the sounds of it, hope to god you haven't got it in the abs pump or the fun really will begin. All you can do it rebleed until you get all the air out. Where abouts are you?

Renault = best designer of the worst shittyiest clips in the world ever. Never beaten though ;).

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60205-motul-motylgear-75w-80-gearbox-oil.aspx Is where my money would go.

Woohoo!

And it still won't pull back anywhere near as much as clip will.

Gaz were as good as expected then, shame :(. I'd love a set of V3s mind.

Re: I've just been told it's fine that my pas pressure sensor is leaking a bit of flu Duff switch then by the sounds of it if its leaking through the body.

Yep but you get very little back with generic readers.

Pretty damn good but not perfect.

Re: I've just been told it's fine that my pas pressure sensor is leaking a bit of flu Where is it leaking from? Body of the sensor? Is it definetly tight enough without going mad?

Re: I've just been told it's fine that my pas pressure sensor is leaking a bit of flu No it shouldn't leak but its not uncommon for them to do so. Just replace it they're not a great deal of money. Unless you're saving the replacement you got off ebay is leaking?

Where are you located? Can stick it on clip if your anywhere near me.

Acoustic valve on a Ph2, FPR on a Ph1. Fine that its blocked off.

They're easy to change tbh, cranked spanner get in there no problem. Just put it down to experience as to why you should always change a full kit not just the belt.

Thats the aux belt idler and yes it could quite possibly be making that noise if the bearing has failed does the noise vary with revs?, when were the cam and aux belts changed and were they both full kits?

No, the UCH provides whatever features it can that you have configured it to.

LOL! Too true as well.

If its a N2 unit it can't physically provide N3 features, but an N3 unit can be installed and configured to only give N2 features. But not the other way around.

Tools from renault are circa £130 and well worth having imo. The timing its easy peasy, especially with the engine out of the car!

Miliage is stored in the clocks so don't worry about that. UCHs officially can't be uncoded and recoded but whether and outside company can do it is another question. Its easy(ish) to code a fresh uch to a car with clip/set it up but you'll need someone who knows what they're doing because...

Its a shite americanism.

Do they even still make TRZ? Thought TRJ was what renault was knocking out these days. I was sceptical about the motyl stuff but its by far the best stuff i've used yet, makes ND0 boxes smooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooth as silk at least.

Nearest is 3awg (26mm2). Should be fine for battery relocation if thats what your thinking?

All the manuals specify is to retighten it to 15nm. And that is the current part number its not a lot of money at all couple of quid should be.

Saw it there yesterday evening too. Yep was racing blue.

Stick to 75w80! http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60205-motul-motylgear-75w-80-gearbox-oil.aspx will be just rosey.

What was it out of interest?

I'd say not for a Cat C, its not like mines worth much more than 4.5k and thats in fine mechanical condition, 18 months newer, cupped, and not catagorised. The phase 1s are going for peanuts now.

As long as your mate gets all the 4 tools needed from renault and has some brain cells to rub together it'll be fine. I really don't know how so many get screwed its a cambelt change, not putting man on the moon. With the proper tools you can't really go too far wrong.