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Might be worth shorting the positive and ground pins on the heater resistor plug behind the scuttle panel.
If the fan comes to life then then I suspect a dodgy heater resistor pack, cheap enough to fix of your handy with a soldering iron, or you can buy a full unit on eBay
http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=4172
Ktec seem to suggest that cups require phase 1 cables although I'm not entirely sure on the difference.
Yeh you can save a copy of the original map on your laptop if you wish to go back to standard.
Rs tuner does have an option for custom maps where you send him some logged data and he will map to suit but it's not cheap.
Don't forget, the standard map is a generic map to suit all cars off the...
Nah, does nothing, just needs to be plugged in.
Mines been hanging from then abs sensor wiring for years as I ruined the threads getting it out of my old cat
It only needs mapping out if your planning on unplugging it completely.
Higher rev limiter and slightly higher than normal idle are the usual things to check. But I'm not sure if this applies to phase 1 or not as the cable throttle may be different?
I used the rs tuner on my old 182 a few years ago and thought the service was fab, map was great, didn't gain more than a couple of bhp on the rollers but it did make the engine run so much smoother.
I think Henk fell out with CS users and has sinfe lost his reputation.
After half an hour of running it should be up to temp, I put my money on a stuck open thermostat..
As for the rear lambda fault, you could do this yourself with an RS tuner if you don't manage to find a local mapper or wish to travel a little.
I got a ktec stealth silenced centre section for my 172 last month, they ordered it direct from their supplier, so I see no reason why they couldn't sell full system.
Pure Motorsport not an option?
The rachet on the clutch mechanism is an auto adjuster, well it is on the sport. To reset it you disconnect from the box and push the pedal up and down a few times and reconnect, but I can't see that having any effect on the stiffness of the clutch, unless the actual clutch pedal is siezed...
That's a cat2u cat.
Bm catalysts make it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-172-SPORT-2-0-01-01-05-04-TYPE-APPROVED-CATALYTIC-CONVERTER-CAT-/130392198287
What's in a genuine one that makes it so much rarer if they both do the job of lowering the emissions to be able to pass an mot?
I'd just stick a genuine clutch in.
After reading this and your other thread it sounds like you've tried all options other than a genuine valeo clutch.
I'm gonna stick one in mine when the weather is a bit better l, it's heavy as hell which happens with these clutches as they wear
Nope, I'm sure there will be a statistic that because you've got improved brakes your more likely to crash, they would much rather you have a set of eicher pads on which are more likely to fall apart and cause and accident the first time they get warm lol
I completely agree but where do you stop? 60 year old woman gets car back from mot after repairs to suspension springs, Wright's it off into a Bugatti and the insurance won't pay out due to undeclared modification she knew nothing about.
RDP have replaced their springs with eibach now.
Always wondered where this leaves us with insurance etc, I have my eibach sportlines declared on the insurance, but if genuines aren't even a possibility then why should I pay the price for a "modification"
I tried 2 different pagid ones from ecp, one was listed for a 182, the other for a 172
Both were fine in actual length of the cable, but both were about 2cm too short on the outer cable casing so it wouldn't slot home properly in the caliper
Same
Rpd wouldn't sell me the cheaper cables as he said they wouldn't fit my 172, so I ordered them from ktec instead and they fit fine.
Like you say, just slightly longer.