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I found that my 172 wasn't too bad to be fair, I managed to get off my street when all other cars got stuck half way up. But, still pretty shite as you'd expect from a small front wheel drive.

I meant 5 40 lol

I've used it before with no problems, it's nothing special just your average oil with a miller's sticker on. You want 5w50 though, not 15.

I'd do that mate, touching up will look crap anyway lol

In my experience touching up usually looks almost as bad as no paint. I'd probably have a go at masking the whole area up along the contours rubbing it all down and attempting a proper job at blending it. If you fremove the black plastic grill you will be able to spray into that for blending...

Or somebody who's seen you coming and wants to earn an extra £40 quid out of an injector/lambda change lol

Never heard that before tbh

Just snow foamed mine, might aswel have not bothered as it didn't shift any of the muck really lol. I only used some cheap Carplan trade foam though. I'm gonna try the auto foam, meant to be quality stuff

Uh???

Length I would guess.

I deleted ac on my 172 and it made naff all difference. Tidys up the bay a little though

I remember having to buy a bung for the hole. I assume the same rad probably fits another car which does use a sensor there

My 182 didn't have a temp sensor on the rad. Just in the usual place next to the thermostat housing

240 seems about right to be fair.

I seem to remember when I ordered my hubcentric ones from pure they said that some models of the MK2 have a longer lip sticking out for the spacer to sit on so can get away with a 10mm spacer, but in most cases if you don't go hubcentric then 5mm is the max you should go. But that aside I'm...

The oil cap on my old 1.4 MK3 was completely different to the cap on my 172 and 182. It had a built in dip stick

Nah it's an easy job. Big hammer and a ball joint fork should be all you need providing you've got a decent socket set and spanners . Also, have you checked the top mount on your shocks? Unless you can feel visible play in the ball joint I can't see this been your knocking issue.

Who is they? The wife? Happened to me a while back with some camber bolts I'd got saved in the spare bedroom

What do you mean threw them away lol? You only ordered them last week

Welded. I got it off eBay, was about 12 quid, I've still got one you can have if you cover postage? Pm me your email address I'll send you a pic

I bought a straight tip for my stealth, was only about 15 quid. There's a thread on here somewhere, loads of people have done it

Ktec stealths are stainless steel 2.5" aren't they? Mine was anyway. I would say that for 200 quid the sportex will be terrible compared the the ktec . Is your ktec on its last legs or something? If not and you just fancy a change in looks then just weld a stainless pipe onto the back of the...

Very nice that. I'd not noticed the dent till it was mentioned but it'd bug the hell out of me if that wasn't fixed with it been such a nice example

For the less hassle and performance gain I'd say go for a 182 manifold with a sports cat link pipe.

Could always sell them on when your done. I bet somebody would pay 100 for a set of genuine tools. Think I paid 145 from rpd and sold them to my mate for 60 quid, but that was a mates rate

There's a good chance itl be fine then, I think alot of people just do it as a precaution really.

How many miles has the dephaser done since you last changed it?

Nah dephaser isn't a must but for the sake of 100 quid do you really want to take it all apart of it starts to rattle again in 12 months time? If your doing the work yourself then I wouldn't bother, but for the amount of labour garages charge for the full job I wouldn't want to be paying it twice!

The usual is just the crank bolt, dephaser, cam seals, cam seals are a must really, and come in a pack with new nuts and bolts for the pulleys Water pump can be done without touching the cambelt anyway so that's not an issue. Perhaps worth resealing the rocker cover, seems to be a common area...

I was under the impression that the genuine Renault locking pin deals with it no problem, but I think id jam the fly with a big screwdriver and keep the load on the screwdriver but keep the pin in place to keep the timing in the correct position