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Is that the one on eBay for 1400 quid?
I saw that, was going to buy it but I'm glad you've seen this rust, looks gone that, be a right money pit if you want it right.
It's impossible mate unless you've had a lot of practise.
Unless it's one you can get behind and tap out with a rubber mallet I wouldnt even bother trying it.
The cheap glue puller ones are useless as well.
The suction cups aren't too bad for getting out big dents but will still need...
That's completely different to your original post lol. A ktec system is way louder than the stock system.
Depending on which system you have ktec sell centre silencers to fit most of them, I did this on my previous 172 system which was straight through to the backbox and it took loads of noise...
Sportlines are fine, I ran them on both my clios, good drop over standard and with cup shocks handle great
Prolines don't really offer a noticeable drop on sports, but apparently handle better
It needs to be lowered quite a lot to get through the gap.
I took the bolts out completely on the box side, and lowered the driver's side about an inch and left the bolts in, this gave just enough room to get the box out
172 cup used a longer single piece driveshaft on the driver's side I believe, and it would fit a normal 172 or 182.
The support bracket and bearing was used on cars with a 2 piece shaft
On a track car maybe, not for the road.
Box swap is easy enough if your good with the tools, took me a couple of days on my back with axel stands on my own.
Subframe bolts were the biggest pain in the arse for me, the clips holding the nuts inside will snap lol.
Pain in the arse diagnosing the driveshaft, I had a clicking sound on my civic fn2, upon inspection with the car in the air the driveshaft appeared fine. It was only when i took the shaft out the hub I could feel how knackered the joint was.
Replaced just the joint with a joint from shaftec...
Release bearing sounds will change when the clutch is pressed but it would also do it when stationary.
You problem seems to be related to movement so my thoughts were driveshafts as they will be under load when the clutch is up and the car is driving.
It must be a really poor fitting tool then because regardless of the bolt hole, if one half moon is facing up and the other one facing down then surely it's physically impossible to get a straight tool to sit between them.
Surely putting a protective section on will make it worse as that bit will be even lower, causing more pressure to be put on the exhaust when it hits and stressing other bits like the manifold.
My ktec stealth system used adjustable clamps on the centre section mounts rather than welded on...
When pinning the crank it's very easy to get the pin in a balancing cut out rather than the actual crank setting hole.
Depends how how out it is, group n timing could be considered out but they still run
Take the end caps off, pin the crank and make sure the cams are the right way up.
I can't remember which way they should be (it's in the pdf manual) but there's a big half moon and a small half moon
First thing I fitted to my civic fn2, but I'd have never dreamed of fitting them on my 172, looks terrible.
Don't think they do a great deal to be honest, ok for motorway driving if you want the so Dow cracked a bit