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2 man job, one in engine bay holding a socket on the bolts, then other under the car with a rachet, a load of extensions and a universal joint really helps

Everytime I've bought new disks they have a coat of thin oil on them, always needs cleaning off before fitting

If your getting a fault on both I'd be I climbed to check the connector near the subframe as this Carry's the wires for both rear sensors, seems odd they would both go down at the same time

8180 25204 That's the number I ordered for drivers rear, fit perfect. Maybe there's some other cheaper ones that fit now?

I think not The only ones I found that fit were made by Triscan. There was a thread a few months ago, me an Steve pin pointed the correct ones, but long story short was boch don't fit.

1 in the middle and one at the rear. The middle has been revised and is now red, get them from Renault parts direct they aren't expensive.

The last 2 days when pulling out the carpark at work the abs pump has gone mental for the first few presses of the brake, then after that is fine. It seems a completely different fault to when I had a duff rear sensor, as that just lit the abs light permanently and I could feel slight feedback...

Yep outside the car. Remove driver's arch liner and youl see it. Pain in the arse to reach, I had the subframe down and it was still awkward, probz easy on a ramp though but I was on the drive

The universal joint from rack to collum is behind a big rubber bung through the drivers side wheel arch, it's held together by a pinch bolt.

The Triscan one I fitted to my phase 2 has been faultless. No idea if phase 1 use the same sensor or not though, I assume not, but could be wrong. If you can get the OEM part numbers then autodocs part finder does a brilliant job of matching to aftermarket parts.

I'm gonna try this stuff. Seems cheaper than the new meguiars hybrid ceramic wax too

I keep meaning to try one of these spray on type ceramic sealents. I never thought they could give much of a shine compared to a proper wax, but clearly they can!

Looks good mate. Wouldnt rubbing down with isopropyl alcohol remove all the fillers that you put in with the super resin polish?

14mm Allen key to take the cap off

If I'm changing my cambelt in a month or so and it is stuck on, do I actually even need to worry about it? I know that the belt is supposed to be turned over a few times before finalising, but could I just tighten the cams back up and turn the entire engine over a few times to equalise the...

Seems odd that would wear

To be fair I was looking on eBay the other day and noticed that 197s have really come down in value. I fancied one but the shocking fuel economy and cheese gearboxes put me off.

Do even the non keyed ones get stuck on? I thought they were floating on the clips?

For the sake of. 3 quid transistor give soldering a new one on a go. Took me about 10 minutes to solder a new one onto mine.

When it pulls is it during acceleration? When coasting? I had a pull to the right , changed everything suspension related, still the same 4 new tyres. Problem solved

I wouldn't have thought so, the edge ribs are taller to stop the belt skipping a rib I think. What are you worried about happening with the pure pulley? I dont think they would sell something thats going to make your engine self destruct surely?

Plenty of time to get it sold lol.

The message I got from him was regarding the same question. He said he doesn't do the fast road shifter anymore as the manufacturer was charging him a fortune. He reccomended I buy stiff shift, stiff ball insert and quick shift along with a scenic shifter.

He emailed me back on this email address not too long ago janos.puskas@dp-automotive.hu

Strap on lol

Goto a scrappy. I'm sure most models of mk2 had the same part

Or just lower the subframe on a jack? Loosen passenger side bolts until theres not much thread left, then remove driver's side completely and just hold the subframe on a jack while you do the work. No need for any special rods

It was only the Mégane coupes I think

Bent stub axel or rear beam. You can get shims to go behind the stub axel, but that's a pretty big difference, I would have thought it would be quite obviously bent

Lucky. Last one I saw on eBay was the same price as buying a cup spoiler with light already in lol