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your camera just hasn't go the latitude to deal with the whole scene thats all.
Can't really tell too much, but are you shooting the cars in a slightly shaded spot on the track? the background does look a stop or two over exposed?
Perhaps shooting the cars in a brighter area will bring the...
agree with you, RAW has its place and shooting 400 images in a day you would spend 6 weeks going through RAW software!!!!!!
Nick I have just been looking at some of your older threads, you have some awesome images from race meets.....really cracking work.
I always shoot RAW on 1 card and jpegs the other.
If I was shooting a wedding I know if some shots are blown, RAW bales me out of the pooh pooh pile.
You say you don't get on with RAW Nick? - there is not too much to get wrapped up in apart from gaining a clear understanding of the histogram...
stick your camera in manual decide what iso/shutter you want ( shutter being your dominant decider as you are shooting motorsport) and point the camera at the grass.
shift the aperture until you get a correct exposure on your metering scale, now point your camera at the area you wish to shoot...
1. Shoot in RAW and bring the sky back in via post processing.
2. Meter from the grass, and see how your cameras exposure latitude deals with the scene. (very similar to grey card exposure)
N97 needs its own trailer to tow it along!!!!
remember he is coming from an iphone and wants something smaller>
my curve 8900 has been faultless, perfect for the business type of user not into games, and camera gadgets.
Getting 3 to 5 days standby from my battery too.
currently I have an older Denon 1906....but it is struggling to thrill me nowadays, hence the jump to HD audio.....but was awaiting to see if it was all hype.
interesting, as I am due an upgrade in the Amp area and was looking at a new Denon this week in the HiFi shop.
was hoping to audition this DENON AVR-2310
try it my way.
slow things down a little.......stick your camera on Bulb, f11, 1/64.flash ...turn the lights down low(getting all romantic now lol) leave he shutter open for 20 seconds or so...fire your flash and drop the water in unison...and the shot will be PIN SHARP - trust me.
Rather than...
Actually this is kind of work is not my forte, I do it for fun so don't confess to be an expert.
I have only gone from what my friend has on his blog and it has worked for me.
Something he also mentions is ambient light impacting on shutter speed, so the Bulb setting works better in a totally...
Have a read through that thread i have posted, it really will help out if your new to the game.
check this clip on his Blog to understand what happens in slow motion.
http://www.photosbykev.com/wordpress/photography/water-photography/water-videos/high-speed/
The reason a lot of you are getting droplets out of focus is also down to the flash power output/ flash duration...it is bit of a science, but in simple terms.......
my top tip of the day is turn the power right down on your flash gun, and move the flash closer - it will improve the sharpness...
Barry have a look at this site I found earlier, check out his insect stuff........stunning work.
http://www.mattcolephotography.co.uk/Galleries/index.html
Best bit of advice I can give is sign up to www.lynda.com
agreed you have to pay a bit of cash each month, but this is the standard that is used by colleges and Uni's up and down the country.
I am sure others will know of places that are free, lynda.com is sponsored by Adobe - and if you do...
D3 and a 3rd closer lol
Just spent the day making a new hide one which is more portable and will collapse down quicker.
Fingers crossed I will be heading out tomorrow.
I really enjoy wildlife/Bird photography ( when I get the spare time)
Here are a couple of my old ones, now that I have some better glass I really need to get out there and use them more.