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the bulletin explains that some 172Cups were being failed as the testers were confusing the set-up with the ABS equipped cars - the Cup's got a sprung load-sensing compensator block above the rear axle. then it goes on to mention that some vehicles are just engineered with very little rear brake...

'HALF-PRICE HEROES' and a red 360 thanks

have a search for the VOSA bulletin on here and show them that first

what's on the cover, just so i don't mess up? ta

probably looking at a small fortune from Renault :dapprove: is it the same block and valving as on any other model?

there was on mine - changed them all at 40k (with poly dogbone) - felt very good in comparison afterwards. not so big a difference when i swapped for the two uprateable ones about 20k afterwards

good compromise would be poly dogbone and renew the other three for std. must admit that i didn't notice a massive difference in control over the shunting when changing recently renewed std mounts for the KTEC ones, but there is a definite improvement and they 'should' last a deal longer...

Haynes manual should cover it. it depends upon the way the circulation runs - usually need to remove the top and bottom rad hoses to flush the rad, and mebbe the thermostat/housing to flush the engine what is it? someone might be able to advise specific procedure

given that they're massively over-servoed anyway, guess you'd know if you had a servo problem? (re. comment about the pedal being very hard) the brakes on these seem to be a bit loony when they're working properly (very aggressive)

or push the arms forward, unhook cables, then see if the cables are restricting full return of the arms

just use a screwdriver to lever the handbrake arms towards the back of the car. if they move, there'll be a problem with the cables or the mech

i've not actually seen or sat in any, but have read numerous recommendations for Magnums, which are a copy of a Recaro seat at a fraction of the cost comfiest i've tried is the Sparco Pro2000, but they're atleast £300ea the cheaper seats tend to be steel framed; some of them can be pretty...

can you lever the handrake arms back at all?

haven't clicked, but did it have an oversized roof spoiler and stickers down the sides? often see that one parked up, on my way to Filton

could alternatively try using a decent clamp (Mikalor type), which should provide alot more clamping force than the usual u-bolt type

Re: K-tec Gearbox Mount Problem you don't need to take the tray out to sort the nut - just use the flats on the bolt to unscrew it from the nut (get a ring spanner on the nut from the wheelarch, just to hold it) - then threadlock it back on. mine's been fine since having done that

or Loctite 5920/etc if it's just a flange joint

mine went whilst i was reversing. it seized, though - so different to yours pretty sure someone one here said something about a bolt that can work loose and drop out - can get to it by removing the 'box end cover. that was no good for me, but may be an option for yours? although i've no actual...

sounds management related, but could it be something daft like they've steam cleaned the bay, and gotten something wet? did you test drive it?

can you buy a T&T'd bin, or borrow something for a little while, whilst you hold out for a decent private sale? you'll be robbed if you exhange it at a dealer:dapprove:

i'd check with the club to see what you're allowed to do within the regs

Clio2? the door check straps 'crack' on some of them - try tightening things if that's what you're getting ed. just spotted which forum you've posted it in - handbrake?

or convert to drums; don't know if anyone's done that is this road rallies (i.e. road legal)?

Re: K-tec Gearbox Mount Problem sorry if you've already answered this - did you make sure the centre bolt is tightened into the nut underneath (accessible from wheelarch only)? jacking it up 'shouldn't' make any odds, as tightening it all up should pull it together anyway

Re: K-tec Gearbox Mount Problem it might be worth searching for pictures on here to see if anyone else has posted something similar; the nut doesn't cover as many threads as it should, but not sure how this one compares with the typical (ed. thinking/typing too slowly!) have you tried it...

Re: K-tec Gearbox Mount Problem that's about the right amount of thread exposed on the middle bolt - odd this contradicts above, but could it be that you've got something trapped ontop of the gearbox that's not allowing it to be pulled up as far as it should?

Re: K-tec Gearbox Mount Problem think it's together in the right order - is the centre bolt that it all sits over tight? it tightens into a nut underneath ed. lol. difference of opinion! i can't remember to be 100%, but yours is in the same order of assembly as the picture shown on KTEC's site

noticed a few people complaining about rattling CLs; i've just fitted a set with new carrier springs (which aren't provided), and have no rattling - just thought that might be a poss. solution to that particular prob

i've tried Redstuffs and thought they came up well with heat, but were a bit of a liabilility from cold on the road. the CL RC5+ i've got in now are much better from cold, but comparatively expensive. yellows are supposed to be good from cold, but no experience myself i'd just go with the...

it'll be that^(re. Martin. new/modified hanger's a good idea, as everyone else) - you can see from the picture that the box has dropped to the right. the problem is that there's only the one hanger (on the left) and, unless you do the back box to system clamp up v tight, it'll just twist itself...