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really depends upon how long it's been overheated for. nothing to lose though - may as well use it; if it's created a problem, it'll likely let itself known fairly quickly

it does just pull off once you've removed the fuel rail and all of the bolts. the only one that's difficult to spot/get at is this one in its left end

you'll be alright - just need to take it steady and in steps. it's important to keep everything as clean as poss, especially re. debris in the ports they should clean the inlets out after they've been machined, but make sure you've no swarf/etc in there before putting them back on

when you say 'break', do you mean the gaskets? you should really renew the gaskets but might get away with it. for the sakes of finding an airleak and having to take it all off again, i'd just renew them all you really need do is have a good look around the casting to make sure everything's...

defo leave them be if they're ok at the moment. the carbon/grp ones aren't as good a fit as the OE rubber ones

was going to say cheapness/for what you get, as well of the mechanicals, i quite like the engine. the rest is a bit so-so to me

someone on here posted the other day about having been left with loose wheel nuts after a tracking check, so could be anything if it's that violent a noise, 'should' be easily traceable - snapped spring, loose mountings, badly worn balljoint; loads of possibilities - need to have a good look

^bought one from a dealer on Friday (that number), which was 58.53 with VAT; they're about £55/60, anyway!

did mine the other day as well, using Wests supplied discs - just go straight on you need a 30mm socket and a torque wrench that'll go to 175Nm, and should (really) renew the hub nuts, as they've a nylock insert (although i've just reused mine with threadlock - hoping that'll be alright..)

great to see compo vids; haven't been but imagine Cadwell must be one of the worst to 'learn' in the time you've got, unless you're already familiar had a go at events on little/no sleep before as well - not good!

that looks a right state, but atleast you've avoided the oncoming traffic. still, left with a 'mare of a financial aftermath - hope you can get back ontop of it all

heat's a dead giveaway - it'll either be the handbrake mech or the piston. there's stuff you can try (clean/regrease, etc) before putting a new one on

you could rep a std car, but it'd be a lot of work; i'd check for the big jobs, like aircon/etc those clocks are a turn-off tbh

i thought the facia dials should be blue; and it's missing it's splitter, but lots are

might have had a plate transfer or something briefly, i'd check for the usual with a car of its type (accident damage/abuse, etc); then for stuff like leaky dampers, snapped springs, crunchy gearbox, etc. not being dismissive, but have a search as there's a fair bit on here about what to look...

i'm not sure i'm afraid mate. i assume these bolts are fitted to the bottom of the struts? suppose an incorrect bottom arm/balljoint is another possibility. if it's that noticeable, you might be able to spot something by having a good look at the suspension and comparing the two sides

i think the shims are usually a sort of rubberised sticker that fit on the back of the pad. the reason yours are rattling is because they've moving up&down in the carrier (which padding on the back of the pad won't prevent) not familiar with the 1.2 calipers - do they have springs that the...

you could try renewing the springs that fit the carrier (unless they came with the pads?), otherwise probably looking at new pads

best to measure the bar

GSF are good as well, and we get a club discount i think. for such a large company, ECP can seem a bit shambolic sometimes (not had as much trouble with GSF, but they all have their moments) - my local ECP shop counter can be a nightmare the parts are usually fine, but there are some...

the TransElf (TRX/NFP) stuff that's recommended is available from Renault in 5L tubs, but it's chuffing expensive! need to buy some as well at some point

3L will do it; it 'should' be 3.1L, but it won't all drain. probably 2-3L in practise

a high clutch biting point seems to be a trait, so don't worry so long as it's not slipping. the knocking whilst taking off in second will most likely just have been the engine mounts complaining (they're fairly soft and don't age all that well) ageing engine mounts do affect the shift quality...

i thought you were supposed to fit camber correction bolts to seriously lowered cars, so worth checking if they're fitted and have shifted on that side. definitely shouldn't have noticeable positive camber; best starting point is probably to take it for laser alignment, somewhere that knows what...

outers aren't too bad, although you need to be careful to be sure they're aligned properly. inners are more involved as it's difficult to compress them within the clamps. don't need any specialist know-how/tools, just patience

the balljoints will clunk if they're badly worn. for the hassle involved, i'd remove the balljoint from the hub to check it (you'll be able to move the pin up&down if it's properly shot)

free/simple to check the front calipers (sliders/pads/pistons), which sounds a good possibility

yeah, the springs are all different, but they're all interchangeable - just end up with slightly different ride height/spring rates. good news is that used sets do crop up on here for not-alot as people put Eibachs/coilovers on (just bought myself some spares for £30/posted); bad news is that...

so long as it's accessible and isn't otherwise complicated, a friendly garage will only ask for beer money just to run a seam round it

assume it'll be a type 063, as the others? Bristol Batteries at the bottom of the M32 for a cheapy, or just shop around. you can often buy decent batteries from dealers (not necessarily Renault - bought a good Varta from a VW dealer for not-alot a little while ago; Peugeot have been cheap in...