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OK head finally torqued. After shredding 5 chinese 3/8" drives, I borrowed a Snappon 3/8" from Kwikfit mate and it worked perfectly. Shows the difference in quality tools.
OK that's my first angular torquing session over and done with. Head torqued. Can't say I enjoyed it. Was an ugly...
Hey guys. Looking ahead at fitting cams.
Manual says fit cams with right hand end grooves level. That is fine, but how to I ensure that the cams are not out by 180º rotation? Do you know what I mean?
It says to "offset cams down", but I don't know what that means. I've got nothing on the cams...
Hmm, well, I snapped all of my 3/8" drives trying to tighten the head bolts.
The socket required is a E14 female torque, but no one seems to manufacture them in 1/2" drive.
Unsure how to proceed.
EDIT - oh, found one. :)
OK managed to get crank pulley bolt off. In the end I jammed a screwdriver into flywheel to stop crank and that did trick.
Just realised that I forgot to buy replacement crank bolt as was suggested earlier in this thread. Doh! Service manual says not to re-use bolt if length>49.1mm. It measures...
Bah - another question:
Service manual says to "reprime" hydraulic stops with diesel before re-fitting to head. Why is this please? I'm not sure I can get a container of diesel, can I reprime with a container of engine oil maybe?
thx
Ok. "tighten to angle" means litteraly that yes? turn the bolt clockwise through 165º angle?
Also, do that procedure for each bolt, then move on to next bolt? Or do all bolts for each stage?
thx
Hey guys - stuck again lol
Looking ahead to cylinder head bolt tightening Service Manual says "tighten to 2 daN.m", I get that bit, I assume is means tighten to 20Nm. Or is it 200Nm? It's 200 isn't it?
But after that it says "then carry out angular tightening of 165º +-6º", I have no idea what...
Duh! Oh yeh sorry got confused. It's the heat.
Great! All is going well. Finished lapping all 8 exhaust valves. Took 5 hours! They look more or less new, no pitting or anything. Very happy.
Now we wait for new inlet valves and all the other guff to arrive.
Duh! Oh yeh sorry got confused. It's the heat.
Great! All is going well. Finished lapping all 8 exhaust valves. Took 5 hours! They look more or less new, no pitting or anything. Very happy.
Now we wait for new inlet valves and all the other guff to arrive.
Duh! Oh yeh sorry got confused. It's the heat.
Great! All is going well. Finished lapping all 8 exhaust valves. Took 5 hours! They look more or less new, no pitting or anything. Very happy.
Now we wait for new inlet valves and all the other guff to arrive.
Hey guys & Dan@SJM
Just a couple of things that have been bugging me that I want to get straight in my mind:
1) to remove the crank pulley bolt is it best to rely on the crank TDC locking pin to lock the crank? Or re-install old cambelt and lock the cam pulleys? Not sure which is the safest...
Hey guys. I am doing my cambelt and am looking to buy or rent the Renault tools as listed below.
If you rent them out then please contact me. Or if you know where to buy them then please tell me. Thanks!
- Mot. 799-01 (I think this is a tool to turn cam pulleys)
- Mot. 1054 TDC Crank Pin
- Mot...
Great will do - 8 lovely fresh exhaust valves. Will re-lap and polish tomorrow. And clean up the head a little more. Now got to cocentrate of sourcing Renault tools.
Valves all out with no problems. The inlets didn't feel bent, possibly some of them had a slight bit more resistance while sliding from the guides but nothing very noticable.
Cleaning up the exhaust valves which I am re-using, as show below with a dirty and cleaned valve. Also I shall re-lap...
OK after reading the service manual I think the following are required:
- Mot. 799-01 (I think this is a tool to turn cam pulleys)
- Mot. 1054 TDC Crank Pin
- Mot. 1496 Flat tool for rear of cams
- Mot. 1509 & 1509-01 Cam pulley locks
Sound right?