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You mean the rubber donut or the bit on the damper?

They do have reverses.

The cars designed to run on a variety of oils have a read here depend on where the engine is working Renault recomended fluids/amounts/grades to be used. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=151501 0-weight is fine its protects down to -25 degrees whereas 5- weight only down...

Its a bit firm, its ideal for the track though depends what you accept though.

Get some decinet oil in it A proper renault oil filter and air filter check the engine for leaks New sump washer (they leak if there reused) Stock disks and pads are fine for most users. And the best compromise.

Stock disks are fine and stock pads are very good as well that what I'd keep from what you've said.

Well the 172 dampers will fit with some camber correct, its due to the way the 182 uses the same hubs as the 182 without cup packs but its wide so the damper needs to sit at an angle as such.

If you have a 172 with cup suspeion pack then 172 coilovers won't fit, only if you have the none cuped suspension packed cars can you use 172 coilovers (and they still ned to be adjsuted a bit).

Thats not a bad idea is one option.

You should get longer bolts yes. Halfords, demon tweeks etc sell it most car place will get them for you.

I'd love to know how thy think they could fit is they'd have had to bodged the dials by the sounds.

Simply I'm a geek.

Check the TDC sensor also the throttle body for dirtyness

They fit but the problem is the 182 without cup packs whilst having the same hub (unlike the cuped packed cars) the cars suspension is wider so withouth camber correction bolts they won't fit and not mess up the camber.

There not much chnages unlike phase 1 and 2 bwteen the later stuff if you realy wanted best way is 172 and 182 are phase 2 The 53 plate (I think there the first) normal cars are phase 3 with the dashoard being all digital etc. The new stuff ie the last of the run cars are the phase 4's

I'd look at a Williams persoanly I much prefere the Mk1 fun handling.

The Tyre rolling circumferance ie the distance travel per 1 revolution on the 13's is 1487 mm the original did 1705 mm Thats a huge difference of near 13% So when your indicating 100mph your realy doing 87mph. Or when your indicating 70 your realy doing 61mph Plus your car pilling...

That picture not of the Clio system. The sytem if designed for the car should be easy to fit just need to buy a sleeve unless as all good kist should it includes one.

I'll work it out I just need to know What tyres do you have now? What tyres should the car have? How far out is the speedo at a set speed ie 10mpg at 70 etc.

Therin lies your problem then.

You pay Renault dealers for there experiance and knowedge and the fact the'll sell you the right part for safe running of your engine. Psay a cheaper place and they often sell you inferer parts or Renault parts but they just don't check them. What the point saving £3 for example on oil...

Check the size of the tyre I've got ever so light different sized (minutly different) and its still gives 2 % difference than it should be.

0590.97.19.44

Not much can realy be done unless the sensors wonly which shows up as a different fault. They always overread though.

Taking the fuse out throws the warning light and pressrus is shared equally front and rear so you could easily spin off. Either go for a full Cup setup/stand alone or keep the ABS IMO keep it though its workwhile.

Installing the Renault dialogue software/ sort out problems. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=109413

Is it out all the way through the rev range the same amount? I'd love to know how a dealerships gonna fix it with the info you've given.

You want to bet? Many parts yes are the same but check the part numbers I know one very famous parts place is selling oil filters (offical Renault ones) for a certain car and they arn't suitable they fit but there danerous to use they will kill the engine.

What PF pad are you looking at as they come in many compounds.

Why? There cheaper than GSF etc often for many parts. Official parts have a good warently with them. Try take a broken clutch (due to parts being poor copy cat's) back to a supplier and see what luck you get. Then you'll know where the extra money goes.