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Yeh, looks like a ratchet ring job. not sure ill get enough movement to get it off though, then how would you get trhe nut back on?? How do you get the scuttle off??? and does anyone know where and for how much i could get a passenger side ph-quick headlight??? cheers.
Hi all, had a minor bump the other day and need to remove my passenger side wing. Ive got the lot detatched, but am stuck with a fastner on the rear upper edge of the wing, under the scuttle. Can anyone tell me what else needs to be removed to get it off???
Try asking someone whos gone from 14's to something bigger, pretty much anyone with a 1.4/1.6 's' 'si' or 'rsi' would have started with 14s, if theyve changed for bigger, im sure theyd be qualified to advise you. Im not, cos im still on my 14's!! :rasp:
:cool: It may only be a 1.2, but its still worth a fair amount. imo, youd be better off getting a 300 quid shed and get a couple of years ncb up. plus, if you crash it (almost inevitable) then scrap it and dont claim. keeping your ncb!!!
hmm, might be an idea. is it necessary to put shedloads of exhaust paste round the rear join?? and if if was a misalignment, it would have to be the manifold to cat/downpipe join (flat triangular flange) or the clamp join to the rear of the centre box, i mught just pull the lot out and re fit it...
hmm... took a look at it and the centre box has no clearance off the heatshield!!!!! and the the hanger on the front mount ( the rubber lined bolt on casting) is forced right against the top, sat right against the upper edge of the hole, somethings amiss, because all the mounts are new, and so...
Hi, i had my whole exhaust system replaced a few months ago, as the rear section failed and the movement must have broke the manifold, however, when the exhaust centre fitted it, the mounts were shagged. I fitted a rear mount myself and noticed that the centre mount had failed and was being held...
Id use a breaker bar to loosen stuff, its possible to break a torque wrench trying to remove a seized fastner thats towards the top of its rated torque, if the breaker bar doesnt budge it, get a scaffold pole over it, usually does the trick:cool: . But as edde says, best torqueing things to the...
I think my dampers are on their way out, so am considering getting a set of springs and dampers, and from what i can tell, without splashing out for coilovers, eibach sportline springs are the business, but what dampers work best with them? Any advice would be appreciated, cheers. :)
depends what engine youve got in yours. i can tell you that the 1.6 has a cat built into the downpipe, with a braided flexi portion at the top (manifold) end, which can blow. if youre exhaust or engine mounts are shagged though, its more likely to be a crack in the manifold caused by the...
17's suck the fat one. more expensive for decent tyres, and mess the handling up. But thats just my opinion. Or you could ask any of the guys on here that regularly use their cars on track for theirs............
Probably just smashed the baffles out of it, however, i know a lad who took the cat off his vtr and smashed the innards out of it. Free de-cat, nice:cool:
http://www.speedlinecorse.co.uk/flyouts/2020.htm
^^ Suitable for road use?? or would these be better...
http://www.speedlinecorse.co.uk/flyouts/2118_.htm ??
i prefer the looks of the 2020's, but with them being mags wouldnt they be too weak for the road over high mileages??
Fair enough, i stand corrected:o Have to say though, i really used to enjoy thrashing the t1ts off my old 1.2, more fun than my current motor!!!!! And it was standard........
Well the £200 you spend on those springs will increase when your dampers give up the ghost. To be honest, if its a cheap first car and moneys an issue (i know it is for me!!!) id concentrate on keeping it well maintained, something youll get a benefit from, as opposed to wearing out other bits...