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i've had old ones break like that when they were seized up, and also when the tool hasn't gone in square or all the way in

oh I accept they were a faulty batch, but they were just that, a BATCH. I've fitted a contitech kit recently which had an INA tensioner kit in it, and it was perfect. Using mostly genuine at the moment anyway, and they do a full labour and repair warranty if there's an issue with parts. I use...

but you're still using the same thing in a different box now.....

I'd use clamps (and i'm mental ;) ) non sport springs are a lot longer than sport ones, and as said, you'll need to get the top mount off the old setup to put on the new

battery widget is the best one i've found. as said though, doesn't change the status bar

I laid my hands on it ;)

Should be fairly tight, got a Williams set with about 5mm of play lol

as laine says, the ecu runs semi sequential so you'd lose 2 injectors if it was a driver.

pretty common, ideally should be on there to keep the joint greased and clean. Can't think of a major issue from one being split of missing though

no marks, no woodruff keys. 100% cannot be done without the correct locking tools

Bit far for me to nip over and have a look really. I think you're going to have to get it recovered somewhere to a specialist and have it checked out. Personally I'd re time it, then do a compression test, and stick the bore scope in to have a look

well I'm trying to be positive and imagine there's no bent valves. I can't see it though. I'm gonna take 6 in the sweepstake

wow that advert is wroooonnnnggg ph1 was 00>01, ph2 was 01>05 Thats not a good price either

DONT try to start it. the timing is fully floating and you need the full set of locking tools. Where are you?

there's a set on my mates 205, massively soft. I think he'll change them after 1 use. There are better budget options

nope, nothing like enough sticking up to get hold of

;) skillz managed to get a chisel to bite in enough to knock it round. There were 2 of these did exactly the same BTW

I win

think so, others felt tighter than normal. Seen it happen before on a DCI, and that was a real cnut to fix, no room to get into it to do anything

Rage :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

you'll often find that the back of the disk is a lot worse condition than the front. Check them out first. There's no big issue with just fitting pads, but if you're going for a performance upgrade, then old disks that are contaminated with old pad metarial will heavily compromise the performance

thats the one. Can never remeber til i take it apart, and it's rare to see a ph1 for me, although i did 2 last week

i dont have it, It's an MOT 1801 though, old number was 1501 IIRC

not trying to order up the old number are you? updated the part a while back and changed the number

the spacer behind one of the idlers is the only difference. If you have one that sits flat behind, thats a ph1, if both spacers slot into the idlers then that is ph2

it's the spring turning on the seat, it wont move smoothly, but bind slightly then ping free. More expensive stuff often has a plastic spacer to lubricate the movement. A smear of grease would likely surfice, and certainly do no harm. There's no issue to worry about though, fairly common...

Same as this for me. I've used Dayco, Goodyear, Gates, FAI, INA, Contitech, and they're all the same in different boxes. There's only about 3 compaines that make belts anyway, and sell it to everyone else.

that looks like it's come out of a healthy engine. They also look like Bosch super4 plugs, in which case, file under B1N, and get some NGK's

christ knows how, I know cars that they're still good on with 3 or 4 days under their belt, and not driven softly either

should have gone for M1155 for track use really