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Looking forward to the next chapter

Take the paint off until back to good metal, then keep coating it with BH deox gel until the metal is totally shiny with no pits, will need to do the inside of the wing too. Once you have achieved that, zinc or epoxy primer on all prepared surfaces, followed by top coat.

Cheers mate, its needed loads of graft as ten years of trackdays and field repairs had left it looking quite shabby. Hoping this one will stay leak free lol.

Coaxed the engine hoist back into life yesterday, half a ltr of hydraulic fluid and a bleed and its working. My mate is in denial as i told him the seals are on their last legs, but he wont have it:LOL: Engine off stand 60-2 flywheel and ap 4 paddle clutch fitted with valeo 480 turbo pressure...

Cheers mate. Big push to get it back on the road this year. Might even make CSF in it if all goes well!

Had planned on fitting the engine back in last weekend, but as usual did not go to plan. Dragged everything outside, borrowed my mates engine crane, set up crane to get the engine off the stand, and the ram had a hissy fit and would not go up high enough to get the engine off the stand. Engine...

Small update, was advised 197 clocks went straight in, so bought a cheap set and fitted and working. @YorkshireKyle has found me a set of driveshafts too, so wont have any excuses not to start pulling my finger out and getting the engine in :LOL:

I rang speedline uk making enquiries about buying another set last year, and they now do the et38 in anthracite. Had to make excuses, as nearly impulse bought a set for my dci lol.

Vortex mapp torch gets the vote from me, they are great. The mapp flame is a bit hotter than your average blowtorch, which can help in some situations.

Quick screengrab of a bit of the workshop manual. I too had people saying its not worth doing etc, but my 172 engine Kangoo idled a lot smoother than most, and mpg on cruise was always absolutely great.

Batt disconnect does not clear the adaptive settings. I had issues when replacing ecu and uch from another 172, throttle response was s**t, so had to reset it for good running.

I dont have access to a 172 to put clip on at the moment, but i would bet the tech meant resetting the adaptive richness correction to reanlign it to around 128, and throttle position setting reset. In my experience, this makes quite a difference to the overall drive, as you need to do a road...

You will need something with an inner spline/cv to suit the pk, 250meg, laguna or whatever, then a shaft to fit the 197 outer cv

You have to drive them like a fanny to keep the syncros right, a few of my mates have owned them at low mileage and all had the same issue. Its even worse than jc5 :LOL:

Tl4 is dogshit mate, the PK can handle decent power, and no syncro issues. Only £600 for a fully rebuilt pk with lsd too. Box will bolt up, as i have been in touch with somebody who has done the conversion, driveshafts will cause you issues though.

They look almost identical to Megane BC coilovers, slightly different colours. Not a bad thing, as they are decent for the money

Acetone might melt the plastic. What about drilling the plastic on an angle with a small drill bit from underneath to relieve it. Drop of epoxy resin when refitting.

Twist and a good pull should get it off

Exhaust manifold finally turned up from Camcoat, looks great. As it had finally arrived, had no more excuses so got the inlet and exhaust manifold back on. New studs fitted Exhaust manifold on Inlet on, new aerotight nuts and torqued to spec. Mrs give the gearbox a lick of paint to tidy it up...

Blue dci is flying along. I have been doing a bit of b road driving for the last couple of weeks, compared to mostly motorway. Noticed the handling was sketchy and just felt like it was going to go sideways any speed above 40mph. I suspected the rear shocks were shot, so changed them for a good...

Had a spare ten mins so tried the R26 clocks in. Plugged straight in, and everything thats possible to test with no engine in works as expected. When opening the back doors the boot open symbol lights up. Every warning light on as nothing is plugged in under the bonnet :LOL: The only...

Ps3. Decent grip in any conditions.

Megane stripped, next stop is the weigh in yard:LOL:

Engine and r26 number 453 has arrived to strip for parts. Engine has wossner pistons and pec rods, currently fitted with rs250 head, but will be reverting back to stock to get it fired up. Bought a 19t turbo, and 3" scorpion decat. Should see a bit of progress once the weather picks up.

Painted a few bits for the engine bay. Used bed liner paint from Halfords, the finish is great and durable. Been in touch with Camcoat and my exhaust manifold should land tomorrow, so might see the engine could possibly be back in this weekend:unsure:

Type d is dirt cheap, no idea why somebody would substitute the cheap red cooIant for it. I know somebody who refilled their megane with red coolant without flushing the type d out properly and it blocked the heater matrix.

Yep can just have slip in higher gears when trying to accelerate hard initially. The judder you have experienced recently will have been the start, clutch is probably down to the rivets or pressure plate is weak, or poss even contaminated with oil if you have seen a leak from that area? Get it...

If it slips when accelerating hard, it will be clutch related. The pressure plate is prob on its last legs. No time at the moment to do any work sorry mate, snowed under.

If its revving and going nowhere, surely the clutch has failed? Load it up in a high gear

It sounds like it wants a wheel bearing replacing.