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3-4 litres

1 → IGNITION COIL 2-3 CONTROL 32 → IGNITION COIL 1-4 CONTROL 3 --- POWER EARTH 33 --- POWER EARTH 4 → CANISTER PURGE CONTROL 8 → FAN ASSEMBLY RELAY 1 CONTROL BY CCTM 38 → FAN ASSEMBLY RELAY 2 CONTROL BY CCTM 9 → COOLANT TEMPERATURE WARNING LIGHT 39 → ACTUATOR RELAY CONTROL 10 → AC COMPRESSOR...

Yeah, think it was them that sent f0xy the kangoo map, be good to double check. Jay low, ditch the manky ph2 stuff and go ph1 :rasp::rasp: Anyone want to go halves on this? http://www.tek-tronics.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=34&products_id=59

It's too long mate

Make sure they don't send you a kangoo K4M map as that's the only non immob map as standard.

Are you running a UCH setup? The ph1 setup is far simpler

Andy have you sorted yours?

If it's a valid code though, that's what you want. It should work. If it's not then the ECU shouldn't have accepted it and you'll still have a virginised ECU. Have you had it turning over?

In theory if you'd have done that, the virginised ECU would have taken the code from the UCH, you have to turn the ignition on for 20 secs or so then turn it off. Now you've fitted the emulator it may have taken the code from that, if it's a valid code.

It was the PAS fluid that burnt

Ph2 JC5 130?

Really? That must be purely a ph2 thing then as the ph1 will turn over without an ECU plugged in, it's run purely from the key

If you have a matching ECU, key and UCH then they should all just work together, aslong as your wiring is right then there shouldn't be an issue. UCH detects the key and the code and sends them to the ECU which then works as it should. I don't know of anyone running the emulator on a ph2 sirius...

Does the key match the UCH?

It's the 1.4 16v kangoo map that runs with no immob code I don't know of an emulator for the Sirius 34, your best bet is to get it working with a UCH!

The ecu has been virginised, basically it's like a brand new ecu that's ready to accept a new immob code, if you've soldered an emulator on it'll more than likely have taken the new code from that (if it's a valid code), if you're lucky and it's not taken the code then you might be able to get...

There's no speedo sensor on a 182 as it takes it's reading from the abs, if you mean engine speed sensor, it sits on top of the gearbox near the flywheel

Drivers side sits on a sun wheel and is the "dry side", no gear oil will come out when you remove this shaft. He's deffo pulled the NS shaft out of the box

Not the case mate JC5 130 The upstand is there but the actual hole isn't, it's a 2 diameter hole that needs boring and the gear fitting.

Same as the 172's though, they only make 160 ish

LOL Who need more RAM when you can have Catcam 421's ;)

I didn't solder it, RStuning did it. They soldered it to a test point further into the circuit and spliced a hole into inbetween the test point and the actual pin out. Not the best method but it works.

I'd hate to see you at Christmas :rasp:

Is yours a 32 or 34 f0xy? is 32 ph1 and 34 ph2?

LOL i've got everything mate, most of the times it's free too CS of win

The boot slips all the way past the clamp? If that's the case and the boot isn't damaged then undo the bolts, place the boot back in and clamp it up. Refill with oil and check for any leaks. If it's fine then you're good to go. The refilling hole is on the front of the box btw

I've got a spare connector if you want it aswell

You've got a ph2 ecu? Mines a 32N yer, thought your chips looked a little different. Is pin 58 even the immob pin on the 34?

Detects detonation on the engine and retards the ignition to suit. When the fuel mix is compressed it can sometimes burn before the spark which is called detonation, the knock sensor will bring the spark in earlier to deal with this. It usually happens when you run s**t fuel

Knock sensor remove the plug and see if your drive is any better, that might be your prob