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Make sure the little white connector is on the starter motor mate

How on earth does a driveshaft just pop out? The boot is held onto the box with a metal clamp that is bolted to the box, you can't just pull them out.

UCH tells the ECU that the key is in the hole and gives the ECU the immobiliser code. Emulator has a code built in that it feeds to the ECU, when an ECU is virginised it is ready to accept a new code, be it from a UCH or an emulator

It's no longer leaking because all of your gearbox oil is on your drive, the driveshafts shouldn't come out unless you undo the three bolts that hold it to the box, if you've got oil everywhere you've deffo split the boot and will either need a new boot or a new driveshaft and to top up the...

As above, the starter is purely run from the key, no ECU input at all. Get some jump leads and try

That's gearbox oil mate, where's the leak come from? Sounds like you've split the boot on the NS driveshaft inner CV

As above you've got the wrong pins, but should still crank, hows the battery?

Have you snapped off pin 58 on the ECU to loom connector? Or you can cut the wire that goes from pin 58 to the UCH.

Make sure it's an early ph1 as they started using the JC5 130 on the later ones

LOL stick with it, have you tried the lambda sensor?

;) + + =:evil:

hmmm, I've got a ph1 unlocked ECU you can try too if you want. Just incase the injectors don't work

Have you tried another coil pack yet? I've got a spare you can try

Come over to mine and I'll do it for you if you want, I'm working on my cars today Actually fitting the fuel rail too lol

Awesome, can't wait :cool:

How would you rate them?

For those that are not aware, we have a group buy going for the AST solid top mounts. We currently have 20 people which works out to £138 + postage http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=467174

Pretty sure you can fit the 197 sump and do a few other things and it'll fit, although it's physically longer due to having another gear

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=464272 :cool:

Get under the car and look lol, easiest way to tell

The F4R manual? My understanding is: lock the cams at both ends, undo tensioners and pulleys, belt off, rocker cover off, cams out, new cams in with lube and refit everything properly?

What's the correct procedure?

Define terrible. At driving speeds the lack of assistance is hardly noticeable it's only at parking speeds that you miss it. Especially when using the same rack.

Keep the same rack, just fill it with grease and seal it up Manual ones are slower

You need these parts then put them on like this: with a 5 rib belt to miss the cam covers, the brackets can be found on non PAS R5 1.7's, volvo 440/460 and 480's You can also use the brackets that come on PAS volvos with slight modification to the bottom bracket to miss the subframe.

no

1. 77 00 115 267 ARBRE CAME ADMISS 2. 77 00 107 555 CAM FOLLOWER 3. 77 00 873 652 COLLET 4. 77 00 114 978 VALVE SPRING 5. 77 00 114 112 CUP S/ABS 6. 77 01 471 279 VALVES X8 INLET 7. 82 00 032 853 8. 77 01 473 101 VALVE SET X8 or 77 01 472 426 VALVES EX SET C2 9. 77 00 107 556 VALVE ROCKER...

part 9? There's another number listed: 82 00 115 605 I'd check with your dealer as to which is correct

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-CLIO-II-LAGUNA-MEGANE-HYDRAULIC-LIFTERS-x-16_W0QQitemZ180405501951QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2a01017fff#ht_1331wt_939

77 00 107 556 VALVE ROCKER: for the rocker 77 00 107 555 CAM FOLLOWER: for the follower for a F4R 730