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they seize(weld due to heat), but never heard of a wheel falling off

why it been a pain? what was it lowered by?

just from what i read no more than about 30mm all round keep the front 15mm lower than the back whatever u do the clio 1 cups are only about 30mm lower, u sound as if youve seen something dropped on its arse???

what else do u have in the shed?

well as long as u have a formula to calc trans loss/ambient temps and pressures then thats cool;)

not seen bb magnex build and fit quality is amazing (fewer sections and doesnt drag on the floor) i would have the magnex over the ktec

more like 127 imho, but depends on what RR u got the fly figure at, they vary. lots!

move out of farmer contry;)

did u manage any timed runs? free tyres and all that! lol is it a customers car then?

poor research???? ;)

might as well have the other http://www.btinternet.com/~weightspalace/5.jpg

Mr Stromba owns number 2, number 1 was never written off

they kick em up easily, specially if they havnt been lowered its not a bad thing http://www.btinternet.com/~weightspalace/brunty_0002.jpg

am i right in saying its the manifold and downpipe thats the important bit, this is where all the pulse timings are done? as we come from the downpipe we just just want shot of the gas ASAP dont we? the 45mm zorst which i have on atm SEEMS fine, but im worried that the internal pipe area is...

that was my worry, i hear a 3" zorst will flow about 3/400 hp but i cant find a figure on a 2" zorst (or say a 45mm) what i need to know is will it cause a problem having a 45mm zorst and say 160/170 hp? its a difficult question to answer i know.

lol i meant pipe 2 would be best imo told u i was getting confused lol Alex - i agree with the scavanging point Ben - i got the jist thanks ok, ive already gone for pipe 2, but my worry was, is it going to cause a restriction to flow only being 45mm, but it seems to be fine. And it gets...

its n/a cheers red im thinking pipe 1 would offer high velocity and little resistance to flow backpressuremailto:flow@backpressure "> but it gets so damn complicated i want ben to answer but im thinking he may confuse the hell out of me when doing so lol

this isnt a trick btw, just want to get opinions other than my own

ok, so like the interuption and turbulance would be worse than running the 45mm pipe in the first place???

ok pipe 1 is a 50mm exhaust pipe with 2 interuptions that close the diameter down to 45mm in the 2 places pipe 2 is however 45mm diameter with no restrictions at all Q: which has less restriction to flow and why? http://www.btinternet.com/~weightspalace/pipe.jpg

we dont want to many of them about do we................................. be as common as 172s else;)

yup

i used trial and error on mine as ben said take it out in the wet and do some emergency stops and make sure the fronts are locking before the rears. now take it easy, because with mine the rear was locking first and that is damn right dangerous when braking hard into a corner! trust me on...

car paint specialists, have a look in the yellow pages mine matches it to the car aswell, to allow for paint aging/fading etc. do you know what paint type u need?? acrylic, cellulose, 2k

and the only problem with CAT1 Cliffords are.......it aint much good when your cars being towed away! lol it works both ways we have tracker on the scoob, if some1 is stupid enough to take it (which i doubt) it aint gonna be gone for very long

0-60 who cares??? thought this was aimed at the new 182, not yet another argument between 172/cup owners.

we need to see a torque plot, to see where the extra 10hp is being made, if its in the power band say 4.5 to 6k?? then it could make a big diff on the road. if its low down, the diff between all 4 cars could be very slight. its hard to say without seeing power plots

lol

lots of people try to kill themselves when the weather changes, people need a close encounter it seems before they adopt a winter driving stance. winter is deffo chill out time. so what u gonna do then? buy another?