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bought it friday night and finished it sat night, great game, and it makes me want to go back and do things differently
i want to try and get all the trophies aswell (not many games where that interests me)
im guessing coolant is pissing out of it? like a constant flow? or just trickling out?
im not totally sure on this model of car, but it looks like you might be missing the bleed screw?
i'm sure what you are describing is the bleed screw
is it made of plastic?
it might have a cutout to fit a flat bladed screwdriver to tighten, but be careful as i say they are only made out of plastic
if they are the same as the mk1 (which i think they are) you have to take it out from under the car, which can mean removing/dropping the exhaust if there isnt space to get it out
4 bolts to remove it (plus moving the exhaust)
right just to put my two penneth in......
if you are clamping the battery down (which you 100% should) then this will act as the clamping/spreading force that will hold the battery box in place
on mine i have the battery box, then the battery inside in, then the battery clamp, the clamp...
why differ from what the cup racers used? ie the 2118's and the 2020's?
i dont recollect them having a problem with buckling wheels? and they drive them hard!
http://www.yozzasport.co.uk/products.php?cat=157
are you sure there isnt a roll pin?
i use williams driveshafts but the o/s splined section on my JC5 has the hole for it, so i would assume (we all know what assumption is lol) the 172 driveshafts have them too?
if there is no roll pin i find a rubber mallet does the trick if it's stuck
mine is a standard decat pipe and works just fine, no knocking on the subframe/arb
like this http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2034
remember that using a solid dogbone mount (like the one in foxy's pic under the car) can free up a bot of extra room by allowing you to tilt the...
very impressed with the work that has gone into this
i will also be very interested to see the results of using this setup
i was toying with the idea of something similar (airbox over the trumpets, and then a air feed coming from the passenger headlight) but wasnt sure what effects it would...
cant remember which wire it is on the coil, use a multimeter to find which one it is
yeh there will be a big yellow relay and 2 smaller black ones, as per this
yeh you can check it at the relay or at the coilpack, there is a 3 wire connector attached to the coilpack, will be under the engine cover if you have one fitted?
im not sure on the mk2 fuel pump connector, but 2 of those wires will prob be thicker than the others
someone will confirm it but...
no it should prime every time on ignition
check the fuel pump connector, check there is voltage there, if not start working your way back to trace the fault
also check the coil pack is getting voltage, one relay sends power to both
Re: PH1 172 Track Car, abit special *ITB update*
can i ask how much that track day cost?
ive just had a look at the trackdays.co.uk site
£199 or £229 for the two dates on there!! :headno:
*edit, forget that found it on circuit days
Re: someph-ing different...........
ah i see
yes thats the bit i mean :)
i won't clog up this thread any further, but if you could keep me informed Fred that would be brilliant
Re: someph-ing different...........
car looks brilliant!
fred/neil - what are you doing about the engine mount fixings that are no longer utilised due to the ITB's?
i have tried purchasing these parts seperately (a bolt and tapered washer/spacer setup for one fixing and some sort of bracket...
TPS sensor?
ie throttle is slightly open letting air in but ecu isnt giving proper fuelling due to TPS not reading it is open?
is there a way to check TPS values on standard setup?