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Just before Christmas I fit the pure motorsport hydraulic quick rack, took me a while to fit but its been faultless since the 1st startup. It really is a massive improvement for general road driving as well as high speed, I cant wait to take it on track as I think it will really shine. Ive been...

@cliocollins I think around 4500 depends on how well it drives and if its been setup well I see the interior has been sprayed as well? The thing is if someone wanted to do the work form scratch it would set them back more than 4500 but track cars can be personal and some prefer to have a clean...

Depends on the specs really, is it running 3 ways or apex springs ?

There are some that are not obvious like behind the heater controls, radio has to come out for 2 I think, there are 2 small torx under some flaps in the bottom of each side, both tweeters.. This might help https://www.cliosport.net/threads/ph1-ph2-dash-conversion-full.583827/

I took the lower dash out and loosened the support beam, not sure the exact name for it. You might as well take it out as it makes things easier overall :)

b******s. You can get the ar1 for less than that and 205 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NANKANG-AR1-AR-1-SEMI-SLICK-ROAD-TRACK-TYRE-205-45-16/202474361332?hash=item2f246991f4

I think things were just misunderstood. For what you pay you get many good deals from members on here and help too. I originally became member to look for xenons and found a pair the next day, have bought and sold many parts since!

Been reading back on old threads and seemed it was a huge hassle that wasnt worth it. I have a bulkhead pedal box to put in but am looking at a reverse floor mounted one that includes the throttle pedal instead but keeping dbw is costly. Why is it not just the ph1 engine loom, ecu, key/barrel...

@JACAM Was just seeing how you did yours ? I had a crack at custom setup a couple of times, first time was through the boot for the rear lines then I put the seats back in and ran a line back in the original place and through the firewall. Since then went to a full cup setup as I cant make my...

@STEVE.M I have the asts as they came with the coil overs, I think the bcs are basically the same and half the price. Its nice to have the adjust-ability and especially as the chassis might not be perfect but Ill never change it to more camber, I can get -3 as the bolt holes are slotted and...

Thought about more caster up front? Mine is very stable, a little heavy but its really smooth on the roads. Would like to do a video soon with the new quick rack, road driving really is effortless even with the firm asts

Whats your fronts at? I have 2.6 fronts and think its great on the road, plenty responsive from cold, I was thinking of going -2 on the rears but will wait till arb to judge

Looked at the pms bearing conversion for them?

@JACAM T piece inside before the valve?

Would the stub axles be bent?

Would you set the toe back as well? I personally wouldn’t it seems to far out. @STEVE.M

Go and look at the wheels in person, that should be quite obvious if it really is that out. My rear toe is 0.37 and 0.20 and I can see the difference. Personally if it really is i would get another beam but someone else might say other wise

I think ive lucked out on my chassis, one shim will put things pretty good and my caster (with top mounts) is 4.76 and 4.69. So this shim will set the thrust angle better, not 100% on what it is.

@STEVE.M Thanks for the help! I think ill go for the 10min for the n/s for now. The cars been corner weighted and is very balanced, I wanted the rear to be lively but after it being setup properly I prefer the stability rather than it being a bit more strung, gives me more confidence.

If that the reading was in minutes would the wheel clearly be way more toe in? From the eye it’s quite toe in, I also took some pictures of the tyres wear because it seemed a bit off, before It was aligned

@STEVE.M Appreciate it. Just to make sure heres the printout as wont 20 mins put me much closer to 0deg?

My rear toe is 0.37 n/s and 0.20, camber is pretty good at 1.51 n/s and 1.47. I take it 10 minutes is 12.5 deg so nearest to 20 would be 0.245, if I went 20 mins it would be 0.12, I take it its best to go for 10 mins? I would get both sides closer to 0 but Im still sorting things out and without...

Not legit ? I couldnt say on making them thinner either as I havnt tried it but worth searching. Yeah the lock is not great and has caught me out before, I missed a turning and held up truck and some other cars, must of looked like a madman spinning the wheel so quick. Quick rack helped ?

Just remove them so you can do a 4 point turn instead of a 6

Yes I have seen that, looks good. If i were using an oem wheel id probably need a few of them though :O Ideally I dont want to order parts from japan or outside the eu, I might as well buy a whole new qr for the price.

@bozothenutter my bad yes I mean column It’s to bring the wheel closer but also allows the stalks to be close aswell and run heater ducting. I also would like the wheel more perpendicular so the rear mounts would have to be re welded shorter, I think the lower column would have to be...

Have a few questions as welding or machining are not in my skill set. I currently have a custom rack with a weld on quick release but want to do some custom work to the oem column. My idea is to basically extend what the oem rack is, instead of just having a round bar welded to the where the oem...

@Filters Had a few delays installing it but got there in the end. Very impressed, had under steer at 10mph in the first couple minutes xD But its really given the car a lift, everything seems to be wearing to go, the feedback is very nice, you can really feel the car in the turn and its not...

Standard discs will be fine @George@RTR_Parts