Which rear shim?

[Usr117063]

My rear toe is 0.37 n/s and 0.20, camber is pretty good at 1.51 n/s and 1.47. I take it 10 minutes is 12.5 deg so nearest to 20 would be 0.245, if I went 20 mins it would be 0.12, I take it its best to go for 10 mins? I would get both sides closer to 0 but Im still sorting things out and without an arb right now Id want to adjust after when I get one.

 

[STEVE.M]

My rear toe is 0.37 n/s and 0.20, camber is pretty good at 1.51 n/s and 1.47. I take it 10 minutes is 12.5 deg so nearest to 20 would be 0.245, if I went 20 mins it would be 0.12, I take it its best to go for 10 mins? I would get both sides closer to 0 but Im still sorting things out and without an arb right now Id want to adjust after when I get one.

The factory figures for the rear beam is toe in of minus 20 minutes per side, plus or minus 30 minutes, so really, you are within tolerance.

The RH (drivers or os ) is spot on at minus 20 minutes, but if you want to be anal about it, you could put a 20 minute shim in the LH to take it back to minus 17 minutes.

If you are actively seeking zero, then 20 minutes RH & 40 minutes LH.

Either way, you would end up with a thrust angle of 3 minutes, which is about as good as it gets.

20 minutes is 0.333 of a degree, as there are 60 minutes to 1 degree.

 

[Usr117063]

@STEVE.M Appreciate it. Just to make sure heres the printout as wont 20 mins put me much closer to 0deg?

 

[STEVE.M]

@STEVE.M Appreciate it. Just to make sure heres the printout as wont 20 mins put me much closer to 0deg?
View attachment 1399756

Ooops, I did not realise you had positive toe out.

Still 40 minutes LH & 20 minutes RH if you are chasing as close to zero as possible though, just need fitting at 180 degrees the other way round.

It would be worth confirming with the operator that 0.37 & 0.20 does mean 0 degrees and 37 minutes, and not 0.37 of a degree before making any final calculations.

The figures I got from my Geo were in degrees & minutes. but it was not a Hunter.

The figures I got from my Geo were in degrees & minutes on one of these.

https://www.stswheelalignment.co.uk/services/alignment/

 

[JamesBryan]

He has toe in.

Minus is toe out ?

 

[STEVE.M]

He has toe in.

Minus is toe out ?

Thank you, you are correct.

Are the numbers in the PDF I posted above a total nonsense, or am I reading them incorrectly?

Also can you confirm the Hunter print outs are in degrees and minutes, and not a percentage point of a degree.

 

[JamesBryan]

Thank you, you are correct.

Are the numbers in the PDF I posted above a total nonsense, or am I reading them incorrectly?

Also can you confirm the Hunter print outs are in degrees and minutes, and not a percentage point of a degree.

That pdf is confusing things by saying minus.

Hunter systems generally read in degrees and minutes yes.

 

[Usr117063]

If that the reading was in minutes would the wheel clearly be way more toe in? From the eye it’s quite toe in, I also took some pictures of the tyres wear because it seemed a bit off, before It was aligned

 

[JamesBryan]

Yeah they toe in as standard.

Toe out would make the rear end very lively.

 

[STEVE.M]

That pdf is confusing things by saying minus.

Hunter systems generally read in degrees and minutes yes.

f**king confused me.

And the Hunter print outs have 0.37 followed by a little circle not ".

I`m giving up for tonight.

And why is this constant stream of what I can only assume is dandruff dropping down my screen?

 

[STEVE.M]

My rear toe is 0.37 n/s and 0.20, camber is pretty good at 1.51 n/s and 1.47. I take it 10 minutes is 12.5 deg so nearest to 20 would be 0.245, if I went 20 mins it would be 0.12, I take it its best to go for 10 mins? I would get both sides closer to 0 but Im still sorting things out and without an arb right now Id want to adjust after when I get one.

So starting again, I gave the guys in Towcester a call, who made this video.

The readings on your printout are expressed in decimal points of a degree, but if you go back to the alignment centre, they can change the calibration settings,

and reprint your alignment results in degrees and minutes.

This could save you a bit of head scratching, though a 10 minute shim = 0.1665 of a degree.

It`s worth being aware of this option and specifying which units you require in advance.

@JamesBryan

 

[Usr117063]

@STEVE.M Thanks for the help! I think ill go for the 10min for the n/s for now. The cars been corner weighted and is very balanced, I wanted the rear to be lively but after it being setup properly I prefer the stability rather than it being a bit more strung, gives me more confidence.

 

[STEVE.M]

@STEVE.M Thanks for the help! I think ill go for the 10min for the n/s for now. The cars been corner weighted and is very balanced, I wanted the rear to be lively but after it being setup properly I prefer the stability rather than it being a bit more strung, gives me more confidence.

That will be pretty much spot on..

 

[Usr117063]

I think ive lucked out on my chassis, one shim will put things pretty good and my caster (with top mounts) is 4.76 and 4.69. So this shim will set the thrust angle better, not 100% on what it is.

 

[STEVE.M]

I think ive lucked out on my chassis, one shim will put things pretty good and my caster (with top mounts) is 4.76 and 4.69. So this shim will set the thrust angle better, not 100% on what it is.

Both sides will be +20, so a thrust angle of Zero.

Result!!!!!?