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May as well do the whole camkit on the replacement 16v engine, as it's easier with the engine out.

Yes you should put copperslip on the guide pins, otherwise the carrier won't slide in and out smoothly. :)

It just looks soo much better, the stance of the car is great. loving the pics. :) Oh, here's rich's old vavler which I bought from him (off here). Thanks again Rich if you are still on here! ;) I think this is roughly 60mm on coilovers. (Hope he don't mind me using his picture). Again...

^ Haha ermm no it doesn't! 55mm looks amazing, so much better. 30mm you can hardly tell. Here's a pic of mine before and after. 55mm front / 60mm rear. (15" alloys with 45 profile tyres) Before (Tractor Mode - On) ==== After (Tractor Mode - Off) ====

If it takes awhile to stop it's probably because the brakes are the sh*te Bendix Calipers. You could always do a nice 16v front brake conversion. :D Lucas/Girling calipers will give you better braking.

Anti-Virus: Nod32 Firewall: Windows XP (SP2 Version) + Hardware (Router/NAT) Anti-Spy: Spybot + Ad-aware + HijackThis = Job Done. NB. It's also very handy to use the HOSTS file for Windows to automatically stop dodgy sites. http://www.mvps.org/winhelp2002/hosts.htm And just...

There is one of these on my Valver, I found I had to adjust the seating position quite a bit in order to get a comfortable reach on the gearstick, but still not sit too close to the steering wheel and pedals. But I like it, very easy to change gears, but I have crunched them a few times because...

Hey, I think this is the link, http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4571&highlight=welding+steering+column You may need to register though to access it. Not too sure about the sunroof one though, sorry.

I have these on the RT and the Valver. Good discs imo. :)

I'm hopefully getting the Powertec (Stainless Mesh) Filter with a Polished Heatshield. :) Apparently the Powertec filters sound the nutz!. :) I'm hoping with the heatshield and a good (wide diameter) piece of ducting it'll help keep a good airflow over the cone and reduce any heatsoak when in...

It's the UJ which can be welded, a lot of people have done this, there is a guide on www.williamsclio.co.uk (need to register) but that shows you how to do it. Persoanlly, I'd get it replaced when it gets worse. :)

^ But if you supply a cold air feed and add a possible heatshield then an open cone will be ok. It will only suffer when in traffic due to there being no air flowing into the engine bay. Once moving, there should be no heatsoak (or very little). :)

I've had mine for about 2 weeks now. The time I actually have driven it, 4 days. It's been in the Garage being fixed since then. :( And it wasn't a pile of rubbish either, bought from off these very forums, with a lot of history. The things that have broke are the things that wern't fixed...

Yup Magnacor Leads with NGK Plugs = Win Win. :)

I believe the t1-r are the replacements for the t1-s

Depends on the profile and offset like mentioned as to how far you could go. But 17s... that seriously can't handle well at all!

Well I bought a mint condition Clio Baccara leather interior for my 5dr RT and that cost me £150 iirc. Bloody bargain that was, that included the door cards as well! So I'm going to say in the region of £150 - £300. Got any pics mate? PM me if you have!

Eh? Mk1 Clio 1.2 12v... 12 valve? Surely that should be 8v for the DIET engine?

I personally don't like the Mk2 shape, the Mk1 is by far the more masculine/meaner looking of the Clio range. More so the Mk1 ph1 + ph2 and Valver. The ph3 has the cuved fogs at the front and it's the start of the whole change to bigger curves. Pfft! Square edges and right angles is where...

I'll stick with normal unleaded and every so often put some injector cleaner in myself... job done, and saved me some pennies in the process. I don't see the need for this fuel unless you run (like stated) a high powered, tuned, car. Otherwise it's not worth the money, hell, even normal fuel...

I heard Powertec are the loudest, give a unique sound with being made from a stainless steel mesh. :)

Anoter vote for Wynns.

Brembo Max for the discs. :)

Mine squeeled on the RT, but after about a week to two of driving it dissappeared!

Your english is good. :)

I have the 55mm springs on my Mk1 from them. Been on for a good 6 months now and still going strong. But the ride is a lot "bouncier" now because the shocks are still standard. So if you can, I'd try and get a kit. :) But nothing wrong with the springs imo.

Don't forget, not one engine is alike. So you may be lucky and have one producing more bhp than original. You go and fit a Viper and have a RR done and get a figure of like +12bhp and go "ah that Viper is ace". Yet someone else get's a different filter on a same model car but has less bhp...

I have been using the ITG Panel Filter in my RT. Seems to pick up a little bit easier and that. But you can't expect wonders from a Panel Filter. :) Well worth the price tag though as it's improving breathing, without the heatsoak. :)

Brembo for the win. :)

Motul 300v Chrono 10w-40. 4 litres = £46.99 www.opieoils.co.uk Jobs a good un. ;)