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Mine has just gone in for bodywork and a full hit of '432. After that, I'm taking all the running gear and pipe work off so I can under seal the shiz outta it. Nice to see other people doing Valvers for the love of them, rather than trying to ride the trend of doing them up thinking they'll...

The BC's also employ a 3rd locking ring specifically for adjusting ride height rather than adjusting pre-load. The thing I also like about them is they can be rebuilt by places like BG motorsport... But as the inserts are pretty cheap new, why bother rebuilding.

166bhp FTW - 65l all day! (I blame your mapping lol)

Start by having the car plugged in fella and properly looked at. It'll be something simple.

Mint! I love mine and genuinely cannot believe more people with Clios haven't purchased them. I don't think I've ever had to set mine to max hard. I'm normally around +12 on track and love the feedback but I am on a custom setup.

That looks perfect. How does it handle being pressed hard in the corners? I've tried to keep my ride height sensible so as not to dramatically mess with the factory geo.

Ride height is personal preference much like taste is women. My cup is around FR +597mm and RR +605mm

It is becoming more and more common Gaz, especially on the ones that have had a hard life. You have to drive them a bit too hard to get the best from them IMO which I don't think the F4 is really built for. I had two Laguna II's, one brand new, and neither really ever let me down... They were...

I believe it is because most businesses have had to update there websites in order to make them more "device" friendly. RUK's and RS's main sites have been done but I'm guessing some of the old "bells and whistles" pages like the heritage site haven't been given the same priority. Maybe get in...

The spring goes toward the cylinder head and on the 1.2, it's part of a moulded unit... You cannot get that installed incorrectly.

Sadly, yes... they are a pain in the ass of a car IMO I'd buy it but you're a bit too far off for me really.

Breaking it will net you more cash but it is messing about and you have it sat around looking s**t for a while. Re-engine if you like the car or sell it on entirely

PMS is absolutely perfect but it is pricey. Joints are stunning, welds are quality and it does exactly what is claims. I never used any sealant and It must have been on/off my car 5 or 6 times. I'm debating about putting one on the Cup but, I would advise you get the silenced variant for a road...

That would be awesome, thank you

I'm afraid I'm not an engine builder or a performance tuner so don't get involved to this kind of degree - this information is just not something I have (nor is it printed in Renaults technical literature). I believe you *may* be able to do some simple maths though by looking at the "lift"...

Indeed but its good to have some adjustment either way to get a correct/target CWP on the scales, so going all the way down isn't the best route to go either.

This is one of the advantages of the 3rd collar which BC/Ohlin use. I'm not sure what the exact value is on the rear collar but you'll have a good +/-30mm either way i'd wager. You're supposed to use the shims to get you to where you want to be and then trim it via the 3rd collar when setting it...

As above, you use the shims to add/subtract height but you can also fine tune with the lower collar on the rear also. I also run the +10mm and haven't had to adjust anything else: My rear is +10mm over the front ride height as the rear is pretty stiff so there isn't much in the way of...

We've done a few this month alone - sometimes an oil change can quieten down an aged bearing but if it's been abused consistently for years without oil changes or with old/low oil then it'll be a box rebuild fo'sho

I don't think it's an overly pricey job these days... We're VAT registered and we do it for £550 including the dephaser. It's one of those jobs that you really are better to get it done right, by someone that knows what they're doing, first time. Of course, it's your car though so your choice.

Sounds Diff/Gearbox related fo'sho Start by dropping the box oil and check its condition... Especially look for any signs of the box failing internally in the oil.

As there was nothing obvious found at the MOT, ball joints/tracking arms/bushes, then I'd have the cars geometry checked. If that doesn't show up anything untoward then I'd thrown some cash at the steering rack bushes.

That's a whole lotta p**n

172 or 182? Start with a proper diagnostic session. No disrespect to RST but it's not CLIP/AutoLogic so go to someone wit hone of these two systems. After that, you'll know what is actually wrong and can concentrate on fixing it from there on. Mick

Why? I don't ever have the need for that many tabs open where it would matter. I hate Chrome and I hate Google... So much I stopped using AOSP on the grounds that it's not very "open" anymore. I don't even find it that much faster compared to Safari.

Your problem is you are using Chrome

Because Renault spend a lot of money testing and developing a single setup to work well in all occasions. Aftermarket cannot do that for each and every vehicle so they do what they think will work... Most people that buy coil overs don't know/care about spring and damper rates, as long as the...

I'm not sure it'll be here this year as they'll no doubt be pushing the new MacBook a bit longer but I hope it's announced. Then again, the MB is a bit s**t so maybe not. I may just upgrade the 13" MBP to a 15"

It's Apples way of saying "you've had it for over two years now, please upgrade" I'm looking at replacing my 2013 MBP but I'm not doing anything until the next reveal as I know a Space Grey MBP is coming... And I want some of that.

Easy way to test that - Get yourself an old mechanical boost gauge and plug it in with a T piece. See if the vac crosses over and stays consistent