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probably had a 1600 tu engine fitted at some point in it's life and dvla had been notified uk rallyes were 1360 tu 75hp piece of turd, so a lot of people put the 1.6 in out of the 306, saxo, etc

What makes you think it's not a Rallye

Yeah I have the same one Dan, I mostly use it to run up bolts or long studded nuts before final torque up, also handy for removing bell housing bolts (once you've cracked them off) or in any bolts in tight spaces due to it's compact size.

mine did it when the pre cat lambda was starting to fail

As impezaworks said it sounds tyre related, I had the same on my Honda S2000 after 2 new rear tyres fitted it started immediately darting left and right under acceleration/deceleration, both were same make and size but manufacture date was 6 months apart, when I measured the circumference with...

Possibly had the belt let go at 50k requiring the head off.

Ph1 air box with a itg filter fitted and a nice Samco silicone elbow onto the throttle body or an itg maxogen kit seem to give the best results

I wondered if it was the old dear on the till's daily.

Not a clio but an awesome looking track ready LY R26 in Marks and sparks car park in cross gates today around 4pm, looked a fair weapon!

MSA standard is as Kieran says 1.5 time thread diameter, safe is anything above the stud diameter really, @Budgie were you in the F1 side or road car projects ?

Take them to work Dan, if you have a machinist shop tell them to cut them in two, take X out of the middle and sleeve them, if done on a lathe you won't even need them balancing.

Buy direct, save monies https://www.oreca-store.eu/oreca-racing-suede-steering-wheel.html Edit: its only the red at 49 euros, black is 84 Edit edit: says made in italy, so probably momo or OMP

That's the megane 5th that Northloopcup uses,

I did a lot of research on ratios for the hillclimber and what Mark says above is 100% you can do it on the cheap with the shorter fifth gear set but ultimately the gripper final drive is the way to go for the required results, ''Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, Teach him how to fish...

disturbed the brake hydraulics recently ?

Whats next?

Yeah that was Bulmers, shut down finally about 6 months ago for development, The one on Gillygate was the best and the lads behind the counter weren't quite as grumpy!

We had some awesome second hand game shops in York, I spent most of weekends in them trading games and playing on the latest Snes when it had just come out, Great memories.

what's the coolant temp sensor reading in live data as these can have the same symptoms

Bad times Dan, That looks like the Diff spider or side gear, give the credit card a hammering and get it finished. You don't think it stems from that earlier shaft issues do you?

The bulge is separation of the tyre's structure and is unsafe the chunks from the rim protector are legally ok but I would recommend a replacement

exactly should be a nice steady wave in graph form or switching from roughly 50mv to 600mv in voltage figures

Hi Joe, The hesitation from a cold start is the pre cat lambda starting to fail, it doesn't always show a code straight away.

upper manifold not sealed correctly ? refitted servo vac pipe ? map and inlet temp sensor plugged in ?

partially from above and partially from underneath

is the rubber boot around the uj on the steering rack end correctly located/fitted to the bulkhead ( in the engine bay, near the exhaust )

Check eBay for prices, there're 2 different types of rack fitted ( most are SMI ) but check the sticker on the rack for confirmation of which you have

awkward more than big, give yourself an hour if you know how to spanner

I still play on the ''Daddy'', But will buy a mini too

Awesome, would be more awesome on Speedline Alessio though