Search results

im assuming u mean its lost 4psi :p

Williams is better in terms of standard flow. If your having it modidified, then megane can be made to flow well, plus theoretically you will retain torque at lower engine speeds.

yeah on stock internals I wouldnt want to push one past that. I usually set soft-cut at 7300. Crank is fine, its the rods/bolts i worry about mainly. The thing is, unless youve got stupid-ish cams, you wont be making power there, making it pretty pointless in terms of performance. I think...

Where does RS say that Dan? Data I have doesnt indicate that figure. And if it did, why would you set your limiter beyond that?

Yes ignition curve wont be perfect, but with any ammount of common sense, the car shouldnt relly be driven at full load untill fully mapped, so the risk of detonation isnt a problem if you drive sensibly. Just comparing a megane dcoe manifold and a williams head now, and its very obvious if...

aye what i mean is unless a map file was created for every combination of cams/inlet/Cr etc, they wont be great...and i doubt Andy has mapped many various f7r's with many various combinations of spec, so unless he has one for the same spec as this lad is building, it wont be great. This is...

Dont forget to tighten up all your bolts Dan ;)

Its more specific on a standalone set up due to lack of MAP correction for e.g. It will be quite abit out if he has different cams than the engine mapped for. Chadil in belgium do a manifold for the williams head...I said that previously. It costs about £240. I can supply one if your having...

Chadil make the inlet manifold for the F7 large port engines. They are different to the megane engine btw.

single, always single!

chewing gum works, paper clips and parcel tape are also a winner!

He never asked if it would work like an ATB, he asked if it would achieve 50/50 torque split...which it will. However it wont have the same effect, as its a permanant fixture which isnt sensative to wheel slip. There we are, thats his question answered, so no need for any more bitching?

you'd weld the planetary gears solid, so they dont rotate, and hence divide torque equally through the crown wheel. It isnt as a stupid idea as peoiple are making out IF your only going to drag/strip race....its a common practice, also on the drifting scene. As people have pointed out...

ok, i must have got the wrong end of the stick when someone mentioned yours being lowered...(i think!). Is your suspension in general in good order? worn ball joints/bushes will lead to your geometry being all over the shop.

The wear your experiencing is down to negative camber...as I said a few posts ago. wear due to tracking kinda picks/scratches the WHOLE surface, due to the way the tyre scrubs across the road....this isnt what we have here. IF it was EXCESSIVE toe causing that, you would be experiencing...

does it tend to pull from side to side or feel twitchy??

It would be more likely to be out due to worn suspension joints/bushes, but as I said its more likely down to lowering.

Low Ar means low means lower flow required to achieve peak boost, however the flow potential of the turbo is reached lower down. At a guess, 10-15 psi max depending on the set-up of the actuator/wastegate.

0.42 is low, and typical on most units used on production cars.

If its been seriosuly lowered this will induce neg camber, hence the wear shown. Wear due to toe/tracking is seen across the width of the tread due to scrubbing, often described as feathering.

well personally I wouldnt fit a turbo to a standard engine, so all I can suggest is you maybe use a lowish Ar so as to aid low down boost. Then again if your not paying any attention to Cr and you favour low rpm boost, you may well find you experience detonation easily. maybe you'd be best...

Thats goin to depend on the spec of your cams, the compression ratio, and the rest of the specof the engine in terms of what your trying to achieve. typically you want to concentrate on the compressor housing in terms of maps and AR.

A 172 doesnt have a turbo..... The AR ratio of any turbo is going to be dependent on the turbo design being used.

And you best get a spare ABS sensor ready as they are prone to failing when u press the hub, and they are impossible to remove without damaging 99% of the time.

The easiest way is strip the original loom down so as to just leave the gauge/charging/starting sections...i.e remove the OE ecu multiplug/wires/wensore plugs. then make your new ecu loom.

hmm...blue/violet I take it your making a loom for a standalone ecu??

mostly on the brown.

depends on phases.... of the top of my head: temp gauge is a brown wire 2mm fuel pump is red/white 3mm tacho is violet 2mm starter is white 4mm (on corner of brown connector) Ign lives are the yellow ones. They are easy enough to trace if u have a multimeter.

http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/ I used these lads for a few parts AGES ago when building an AX tintop racer....they may be able to help.

Its not that they are a gimic, or even innacurate...the simple fact is that human intervention cannot be standardised, and so you get variation in important factors, such as strapping force which can give vastly different readings, even between operators on the same dyno.