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aye...dont get me wrong, boost is fun as f**k, but personally I love screaming trumpets! I really should finnish my Williams :evil: lol

IMO anything over 250-260LB.Ft of torque in a front wheel drive car is "pointless". Im basing this on a few FWD cars Ive driven over the years with various turbo/NA specs, most recently of whcih a Punto I converted, using a 2.0 turbo 16v Coupe engine, which made 220bhp and 250lb.ft (standard...

It will likely run with the crank sensor wired either way round, but the "wrong" way round will limit early as the signal will be inverted. Is it only reducing spark with load? sure theres no air/coolant temp correction going on??

*I THINK* the RSI is the same as willaims/16v which is vendix 30-1 X2 (or whatever is it!). In which case your Omex wont read it (unless you use a distributer). Best bet would be to use a megane 2.0 16v F7R flywheeel, or F4R flywheel, which is 62-1. the refernce angle for the ecu config is...

Not top trumps lad, just making the point that others have been used with success!

oh and a punto with a fiat coupe 16v turbo engine up front :evil:

yep good thats the way it should be...easy starting and hassle free running. Theres a 4-5 mk1's from my place running KMS, and 2 running Emerald. All run bang on, the lads have been chuffed, drive them everyday, no hassle.

Yup thats right functionality is the main difference. KMS and Emerald and Omex all have "the usual" boost control, traction control, anti-lag, full throttle shift. Emerald and KMS both have adaptive mapping facilities...Omex 600 doesnt have this. Omex does have datalogging (i dont know how...

One final thing...as for different ecu's...I could guarantee you could drive 5 different cars with 5 different ECU's, and if they were all mapped properly, you/I/any one else WOULDNT be able to tell the difference. Thats the main thing that winds me up when people give hype for such products...

Im not trying to do anything mate, read between whatever lines you want. I just find it frustrating when I read between your lines..... In any case...we seem to be getting each others backs up here, so I'll do the adult ( ;) ) thing, and leave it there. Yes your right actually, Jon is...

He has DTA.

Do you mean plugging the loom onto the engine/sensors??

Emerald are around the circa 550+vat mark off the top of my head, and KMS is 470+vat inc their own coil-pack. You wont really get any cheaper for hardware worth talking about. See if you can find the 2-piece review on KMS in "Race Engine Tech" periodical, that will open your eyes as to...

Most proven in what respect??! Unlike many people, I recommend/sell/USE what I believe works best for a situation. Not just based on business partners, cost prices/deals etc. Im not denying Omex is good, but unproven statements like "omex is most proven" make me laugh. Yes you pay for what...

To answer the question (sales pitches aside)... Theres a number of managment systems available to suit all budgets. Most people will suggest a system based on merits supported by who they are "in bed with", and not necessarily the technical advantages/disadvantages of a system. Personally I...

Most kits come with a wideband. TBH, unless you have the ability to alter fuelling, is there much point monitering it??

LOL, yes mate there would be engine damage if the cambelt failed, but i think you SLIGHTLY over exagerating things there ;)

There is no change in profile, only timing. The kick is due to cylinder filling being increased as peak VE is being achieved. The whistling is more likely down to harmonics and revurb within the inlet.

LOL well yes I agree on the cambelt, but ive got a customers car in for cam fitting/timing and they told me it recently had an aux blet fitted, I wouldnt fit a new one unless they expressed a great urgency to have one. It might only be saving £15 or whatever, but it isnt necessary. I...

whats wrong with re-using an aux belt? lol

I use a KMS one, I can supply these for 300+vat. Its a very neat/compact controller with intergrated multi-function LCD display unit.

Personally I prefer to map the whole engine specifically. this way you have full control over getting an optimisation of power and economy. what's your lambda target map like? see if you can get a screen dump of it up on here...

why are you running it closed loop in the first place? but yes, sounds like a wiring issue to the lambda sensor.

To be fair, if youve got a bit of intelligence and some common sense, you can easily gather an idea of what does what, and the basics of whats happening. He's done the right thing by writing figures/settings down, so that he can re-input them if it f***s up. Obviously you dont want to...

The circled figure is just an RPM parameter for lambda feedback. If its running open-loop and its still having this fault, then you can rule out the lambda sensor and/or controler. I'd check the coolant temp sensor next. Or keep an eye on temp correction when its running, and see if this...

also possible big end bearing damage. And for the record, williams inlet valves are renault only, and only sold in sets of 4...its £90+vat for a set of 4. exhausts are about £7+vat each from motor factors.

The problems will occur when you get power hungry and fit a bleed valve or boost controler.

Building a higher powered naturally aspirated engine is ALWAYS going to be more expensive, MORE INVOLVING, yield least bhp/£, but IMO the most satisfying. Its far too easy to just whack the boost up, do bit of fuel correction, and hey presto your seeing an extra 30odd bhp. TOO EASY. Theres...

Lack of oil would cause bearing damage first. Rings will usually fail in a situation like this (i.e. standard run-of-the-mill engine) when theres debris been taken in by the engine, or improper bedding in procedure. I would say its more likely that its debris related...

its a theoretical value for complete burn..in reality its never achieved. like i said earlier, depending on what condition the engine is running at determines what AFR you aim for.