Search results

They're responsive so don't fade up until you start scrolling.

I've never seen mine do that but I've only ever done it once, which on a slow/old Windaz laptop broke me... Cannot wait for the Mac software to arrive this year.

So it doesn't make the car that little bit faster then? Bugger :(

I've just had to redo our site for this reason. Google says "do it, or else" Needs a few minor tweaks (image sizes vs view ports) but on the whole, pretty happy as it doesn't reduce content. www.diamondmotors.co.uk

That sucks chap, we had a guy in today who had received similar treatment from another garage (translation: Poor advice regards belts & dephaser) just over a year ago to.

You've probably fitted the wrong boss

We do the Cup for £300 Vs £490 with dephaser http://www.diamondmotors.net/pricing/timing-belt-replacement/

I've not yet but that's because I find the GPS traces in the studio software are more than adequate for my use. The only thing I've used Google Earth for was to create my own circuit map for Bedford SEN. Did you try exporting the circuit map along side your lines to see if it was a GPS error Vs...

It's a fair comment to make as we're talking £300 Vs £1200 but, and I'm not just giving you the sales pitch because I happen to sell Race Logic kit, the extra information the VBox kit gives is invaluable and once you see the results of analysing your lap data (times, lines, brake zones, etc)...

Omega here but I agree. I can talk myself in to pretty much any Apple device except this.

All over that s**t and we can attempt to make deep/meaningful speeches to everyone in "Spanglish" - Ooh, we need a sticker to - Who's good with Photoshop? We need a Clio Trophy on its roof!!

Looks to be a faulty sensor trace to me but it could be poor injector(s) to. If you've really got 30 Ohms I'd guess these but I'd also test your meters accuracy to.

Oooft, that looked like it sucked for both parties - but, where to point the finger of blame here? We should hold a memorial cruise Dave.

Ceramic CATs rarely get blocked or collapse... It's kinda like an urban legend of car faults.

Honestly, you really want this on something that can churn out reliable live data and someone who knows what they're looking at driving it. ODBII is rubbish and you are unlikely to get reliable code information using it. Assuming that the issue vanishes when the car is up to temp, I'd guess at...

Thing is, we always keep all parts from a customers vehicle until they've collected it. They're then given the choice to take their old bits or to bin them at our place, where upon I let the local scrap lads have it. Seems a bit convenient

Assuming that's at idle and the car is up to temp(?), there's definitely an issue there. Could be sensor but could be other things also. Can you plot another graph showing H02 vs engine speed and CTS? Idle and fast idle please (constant 2.5kRPM)

You can check for the wiring being wrong by looking at it. Left tail comes out the left side of the exhaust tunnel and the Right is on the Right. If someone has picked around with it, it'll have an obvious cross in the wiring around the center console... I don't think it's possible to do though...

The only vehicles that I've seen which confuse you with sides are the Kangoo's... never EVER seen it on an X65 before so probably a translation issue with the RST (maybe drop Henk an email). Is this unit showing any Crash data?

Another Cup friend! Welcome to the Club

The T is for injector pulse information which the clockset uses to work out fuel consumption. It doesn't mean there's an actual Injector fault.

I didn't open with "you are going to kill yourself" either did I? What I said was, before you kill yourself, here's what to do... But you run with your version and I hope you manage to sort it when the circuits are Open.

Oh I read it properly but you didn't return the favour... Did you make it past the "Okay STOP" line? You cannot alter the configuration because the trigger line you are trying to configure is in closed circuit. My original reply wasn't intended to be shitty but rather to help you by trying to...

30Ohms is way too high - they should be around 14-16Ohms

Okay, STOP! You're obviously doing this without fully understanding what it is you're trying to do, so before you kill yourself I'll add this... Lock ECU > Remove ALL stupid resistors, they are not needed > alter configuration > Cycle ignition > Unlock ECU SRS & SERV MIL's should now be out...

U/S voltage is normal but you didn't give us a large window to see it working in and without graphing the data, you will struggle to see if there's an actual fault there. I'd say your misfire will be something else.

It's most likely that the lack of a CAN Config for the Gen90 is the issue but, I assume you've updated the VBox in Scene Manager to correctly display the RPM data and the (more importantly) told it to pull it from CAN/ODBII?

Ditto, I wish I'd gone the HD route to but I imagine that the file sizes would be crazy where as I can do do an entire day with 6Gb with this setup, so swings and roundabouts. Regarding the Gen90 issue, I'm afraid I don't know too much about them. I'd imagine it'll be down to the data...

Start simple, check the ignition switch is functioning correctly and isn't worn... It happens! After that, it sounds UCH related but that's only a guess at this stage.

A "normal" cold start idle will be somewhere around 1100-1250 rpm which will settle to 850-900ish after a minute. If you have 2krpm, it is still too high and will get higher when warmer. You'll need to check the entire inlet track I'm afraid. If you have access to a smoke machine it will speed...