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depends on how buckled the wheel is.

Stick with the OE's mate.

It'll cost you more than a new one. Very few wheel recon cos. will be able to straighten wheels as it needs a very expensive machine.

Just having my 5 wheels re-furbed in bright silver and new Toyo T1r's fitted. Costing me 1/2 of what I paid for the car, maybe a bit OTT but they will draw attention away from the poor paint on the body.

They should be self adjusting after all the number of times you have operated the handbrake. Did the pads have studs on the center of the backing plate? if they did then the piston won't rotate outwards to close the gap.

After 500 miles they should have re-adjusted. So the hanbrake has to be tightened up, the adjuster is hidden by the exhaust heatsheild under the handbrake lever and has to be removed for access.

It is a sensor and monitors the carbon canister beneath. You can remove the canister and the sensor but will need a resistor to prevent the engine managment light coming on. There are 2 pipes connected to the cannister and these should be joined together. All to do with the fuel tank venting...

I used an open spanner that was ground down on the sides. Removing the 2 lower pipes gives more room to work as well. All done from under the car, lift it as high as you can.

Thanks for your replies.

Make sure it is a genuine "Cup"

Does it have one? and where is it.

Anyone?

Strange? My cat c Cup come from Norwich as well. Who's smashing Cup's up in Norwich? :lolup:

1.Why do some Cup's have a plain chrome "Cup" badge and some have "Cup/172". Is it just the year of the car or some other reason? 2. How are the badges attached to the B post?

I've done the HC's and Ferodo brakes as well, seem a good un to me. Also fitted front HEL brake hoses, althought I need not have bothered as the original Ren. ones are also braided.

Try winding back with some pressure applied as well. Hopefully you are turning the piston clockwise. I just used a flat piece of metal the fitted the slot.

Bought mine from Coolparts in B'ham. £60. For a 172 cup.

Good times will come back in your mid life crisis, just a bit of a hiccup for a few years.

They are becoming a rarity on some cars now, so they can sell you one instead.

ECP stock OE parts as well as cheaper replacements. I would guess the £25 one is the OE one. Ask the sales guys at ECP and they will tell you which is OE and what is not.

They have been on sale for the last 30years and no motoring organisation as ever equalled the Ecovalve makers claims. Pure "Snake Oil"

Yes, At GSF 10% off, take your Cliosport members card and specify you want OE pads. Or Euro Car Parts (only Leeds branch do our discount) and again specify OE pads. They will come in the manufacturers boxes, not the pretty blue ones as at the Renualt Dealers, but they are the same quality.

JS_182. If you just using the car on the road then use the OE pads, they are the best ones for what you need.

Looks like they all seem to be higher at the front, mine too. Can anyone remember if they were like that when new?

If your talking Full Fat then you you should be looking at me.;)

How much are you expecting for it?

Ask to see the V5, the mileage is on that if previous owners filled it in.

I would put it up for sale as it is on Pistonheads, it's free if you have registered. Leave it there for a couple of weeks and see if you get any offers. Always be prepared to negotiate. Someone who is looking for a project should be interested. If no joy then think of PX'ing with a dealer...

Na, took me 10mins to trim the foglight mounts. As I said at the start it's only worth doing if the bumper has to come off for something else.

Not that easily, lots of Cliosport members have trouble removing them insitu especially when they are fitted with Torx screws. Nevertheless the guide should help someone.