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Right ive bitten my tongue long enough with you and this is me being respectful to my elders. I'll say what most others think, you come across as a weirdo with nothing better to do than talk utter shite on this forum, you talk in riddles and reply without properly reading a thread/post and 99%...
It slipped the timing as the alternator shaft had a load of play in it, shredding the aux belt, therefore slipping the timing. And last time it snapped a valve after a rebuilt head was fitted not 300 miles previously so nothing to do with driving it hard as I didn't have chance to drive it hard...
Mine lasted 12 track days before it shat itself and slipped the timing, got it all fixed with uprated 197 cams and that lasted all of 300 miles before it snapped a valve destroying the engine in the process. Great cars when working properly and really do punch above there weight on track but I...
Could just be the callipers sticking slightly creating more heat. Also is your brake fluid header open without any insulation between the manifold as this creates massive heat soak.
I've never once boiled even standard fluid on my 182 with all sorts of pads (DS2500, DS3000, DS1.11, CL5+, CL8...
Snapped belt on the way to having the belts done taking valves with it, then 300 miles later and near £1500 it dropped a valve seat in cylinder 3 so is now scrap!
As Sam mentions start in the middle and dial them in to conditions and personal preference. I prefered the rear stiffer than the front with AST's on 9kg front and 11kg rear and anti roll bar hooked up on soft, even ran like this in the wet on AD08R's without issue.
I just used this page below...
Just bushes really, driveshaft’s will take more stress as will wheel bearings but no point using slicks without decent coilovers, stiff springs and at least -2 camber.
You cant beat the r888's for the price and wear rate, they also work in damp/light rain with no puddles and they can be had part worn for peanuts on eBay.