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Very nice, albeit far too heavy for track but still capable non the less. It'll probably get through a set of tyres and brakes in a day if really pushing.

Will get you some pics later and yes nipples are free.

I've got 2 rear rebuilt callipers with free bleed nipples if you need them. £50 delivered.

EPAS is definitely different on track due to it feeling more artificial, but with that you can adjust it to your personal preference of artificial and factor in its much more reliable then yes its better than HPAS. Do i personally like the feel of HPAS more, yes, is it quicker on track nope!

Mine passed a few weeks ago with no airbags, rear cage, 1 x seat and harness, decat etc. Just find a friendly MOT place and throw them a score. I just have an agreement that if i got pulled on it from the fuzz that I'd say i fitted/removed said items after the MOT.

Try getting rid of the retaining clips, add some copper grease to the end tabs and piston and go out and get them smoking so they fade, leave to cool overnight and they should be fine.

If non cup packed chassis yes, if cup packed (60mm) then they are wider but the non cup rings do still work if you line them up directly underneath the sensor.

Yeah mate f**k all the bolts off, the bumper still fits nicely without any bolts. I could just pull mine on and off without undoing anything. Much easier for track and maintenance.

Not right now mate, but just bend the metal brackets right up and you'll be fine.

If genuine yes.

Sounds like abs rings then, check each of them for cracks or corrosion. Does the car only hesitate when cold? If so it will probably be the pre lambda.

Do the lights only come on when in motion or are constantly on with the ignition? Could be your plugs.

If track performance is your goal then corner weighting is your best option. Car wont look evenly stanced but it will be nice and balanced on track. I just bent the bumber mounts up out the way and had no issues, sounds like you need higher spring rates though. Look at FK springs as they are...

If you set the ride height the same all the way around with your weight in the front seat that should be fine due to the cars natural forward rake. Get the car on level ground and measure from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch. I was 33cm all-round on AST's and 15" wheels and it looked...

Not really, bit of a different engine note but nothing dramatic.

@bloke

Had to cancel mate, was due tomorrow but my engine blew last weekend at Oulton. Will get into him in the summer now if I keep the car.

I personally think the RS3's are a bit Barry, the BM albeit a great car a bit dull but the c63's noise is just car p**n although also a bit Barry. My head would say m4 but I think I'd always regret not getting the Merc. Out the OP's choice it would be the M4.

C63 :tongueout:

Even that worn they where still better than new AD08R's when pushed in the dry.

Wheels will be fine as is for a track set. I have both my sets black as you can't see the brake dust then, they just look matt. Get a set of camber bolts as well as its a cheap worthwhile mod for track days.

That's the one!

So was going to slot my AST's top strut hole for more negative camber (cant do the bottom hole as there's not enough material to file down) and to fine tune the adjustment would need adjustable top mounts, thing is I've just bought PMS top mounts and don't want to fork out again for the grams...

9kg is plenty to hold up the front, you go stiffer at the rear to reduce understeer or induce oversteer....or both! It all depends on you're driving style really.

9 but I'm on AST's

I run 11kg on the rear and mine is road legal and used to commute to and from the track, 6kg is way to soft for a dedicated track car!

10kg/8kg if full on track car.

Just thinking ahead of myself as normal. Got a blown engine but need more camber, haha!

Its going over the Carl to see what the damage is mate.

So exactly what the majority of us have said throughout this thread. Just wear rate to look forward to now, lol.