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check fuses

instead of changin random sensors, why dont u test them??? test all sensors managment uses. this way u will save time and money replacing things that it could be

u can by repair sections that go about 2-3 inches above the original arch line. u dont replace a whole quarter panel for a bit of arch decay

look in yellow pages! under P, for "People that sell bolts" ;) !!!!!!!!!

is there a long-life near u?

wot do u mean dying on u every now and then???

recirculating dump valve recirculates dumped pressure to the front of the compressor (where air goes in), so as to keep compressor speed up when u let off throttle during gear change atmoshere dump valve doesnt

sounds like it should be a right flyer! good luck

sounds about right! so wot management u using? also wot is the CR?

wot boost pressure u running? wot management u using?

^^^^^^^^wot ben said........im 2 tired!!! im off 2 bed!!

quits? ur lucky m8......a thread like this usually ends in a mass free-for-all!!!

it will if u do it right! r they both soldered directly 2 the board? (i.e. no carrier). if so, like u say de-solder both, swap them round makin sure chip is in right way round, re-solder (makin sure not to put a big blob between 2 circuits!!) kebab is sounding temptin! how do u Know they r...

yeah, but he wouldnt be able 2 select gear if it was hangin down (as in disconnected), surely?!! u sure it wasnt just in neutral position and LOOKS as if its hangin??

lol! m8 just swap the chips!!

is it a key-fob immobiliser? if so itll be coded 2 that specific ECU (the original)

why not just swap ECUs

TBH either crank will be easily up 2 the job. its the rods/pistons that should be considered 4 high boost. it isnt the power that will do the damage, it is the torque. but ur right, there is a safety factor, thats why either will be up 2 it! Ben, wot is the effective piston height difference...

personally dont know which crank is stronger! (never done analysis of them!) the 1.8 crank has shorter thro (obviously), so this will lower CR aswell. it will allow the engine to rev higher since piston speed is lower (less distance to travel in one revolution)

it depends how far u wanna go with it. u could run a low pressure system and not really need to touch internals-cheap or u could run 2bar, spend a couple of thousand on the engine-more expensive

really? wots the spec on the engine?

depends how handy u r with a spanner ;) could be done for far far less than nine grand

ur m8 might have seen 160 that day, but how long did it last?

rockport-wot do u mean by s/s? if its wot i think it is,stainless steel, WTF!! id say a willy crank is stronger than a 1.8, since it is the same as the diesel one, is it not?

dont get 2 hung up on r/r results! the operator can easily adjust the max.power figure 2 make u happy with ur new purchase, and u wouldnt even know the difference ;)

do u not think that there is a practical side 2 wot i learn, so that the paper stuff is actually proven?? do u not think that i build cars? do u not think that i have work for teams on placements?

or a re-mappable ECU, where uve got 2 maps on disk which u download 2 ECU when u want 2 change. problem there is: 1) £££ for r/r sessions 2 define both maps 2) being able to determine wot is a good map 4 mpg on the r/r

open ur throttle butterfly and check 2 see if there is oil/sh*t on the inside of the plenum. if there is a noticeable ammount, use it....

yes, but its in newton stewart, hes in aberdeen! was the chip mapped after ur mods? if so itll be fine 2 take it off. as it stands, it wont do any damage......

40-50 mph....in wot gear tho??!!!!