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If you ever want a hand, Ipswich is only a short trip up the A12 for me.

To get the best from the products, do plenty of research on adequate preparation so they perform well

The rubber mount will only tear if it has been damaged or weakened during the cutting / drilling of the hole. Otherwise everyone else that has done this mount would suffer the same results as Saul.

In a hard water area that's the last thing I want.

going on from JD's post in a seaparate thread in reference to using gloss and/or wax enhancing shampoo's: I'm still undecided if this is good or bad. Going to the effort for prep of applying a nano sealant for their extra protection and improved water behaviour leading to the coating keeping...

Hadn't realised it was gloss enhacing, as a lot of the descriptions claim it adds nothing just a bare basic shampoo. I have noticed that a lot of nano sealant companies have their own shampoo that adds to the protection, I'm a little unsure on this as most claim they need a bare shampoo...

after the first month, they wouldn't wash up clean with pre spray and pressure rinse like they did the first month. and without physical working with a small detailing brush they wouldn't comne up clean. admittedley this was still only using something like citrus power instead of a dedicated...

Not heard of EXOv3, v2 has not long been out but I can't see why anyone would choose it over C1 when application is just the same. At least with v1 it was spray on a MF, buff on buff off. C2 and C1.5 which ever version only lasted a month before brake dust was bonding and water behaviour died...

Re: Performance Blue Ford Fiesta ST-2 CQuartz Finest Detail Looks good, didn't realise you're now a cquartz detailer. What do you think of the MF wash mitt/sponge? Was thinking of getting one on my next PB order

I can see this working on a well protected and maintained car, where there won't be too much to deal with. But I doubt it will be strong enough for heavily contaminated cars or say a first detail and would require several hits rendering it not as efficient as the stand alone products...

It helps remove bonded contaminants, can potentially cause some minor marring to he paint though A good iron and tar remover before claying will see very little picked up by the clay so is a more important step IMO.

I did wonder this when I first started using it. Can't remeber what the LSP was now it did seem to affect water behaviour a little, but was still present.

Can't see film being a great idea, but if you did wouldn't you want them as transparent as possible with no tint? A traditional wax will provide a degree of protection, but to properly seal them for several years a sealant like GTechniq C4 would be ideal

isn't the RS grille painted as standard now I think about it and not natural plastic finish?

On my car so far almost 2 years. If you spray them, you will still ideally need to protect them, so if a good scrub will bring the colour back to life why bother painting them and be prone to stone chipping.

Scrub them with an all purpose cleaner. Then dress them with something like autofinesse revive as a non permanent fix, or wipe down with panel wipe as well then dress with GTechniq C4 for a more permanent fix

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http://i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/HD_Snow_Foam_Kit_Karcher_KEWNA_1.html very few seemed to mention nilfisk until recently when they have become more popular

think most list the nilfisk fitting as Kew / Alto IIRC

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There's 100's of people that truly believe that every man'f sits in there own unit hand mixing and pouring products themselves. It was pretty obvious visiting AF that they didn't make it themselves in-house. the sooner that people realise that there are only a handful of actual man'f out there...

Gyeon stuff looks and sounds good, but the rumours have started about it being rebranded Carpro http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=320290

You can use a tar remover on dry paint. You just need the common sense not to let it dry, or read the instructions where it tells you not to let it dry. If you want to use it on dry paint for bad areas. do a panel at a time and only move on when it's fully removed.

depends how bad the tar is. if it is really bad spray on to a dry car, leave to dwell, then spray more onto a microfibre aplpicator and wipe the panel down then rinse. if it's not to bad, then leave the car wet after washing, spray on, leave to dwell and typically this may be enough to...

No. Wash, clay, wash, glass cleaner, ideally a glass polish like GTechniq G4, wipe down with IPA or panel wipe then apply.

Keep it as thin as possible and let it keep on spreading. You don't need as much as you'd think. Also makes it much easier when you come to remove the residue after. Also these applicator blocks with microsuede cloths make application quicker and easier and spread it thinner than the make...

reading fail!!!!

woundn't it have been best to lay down powerseal first then top up with toughcoat? what with powerseal be longer lasting, and the need to apply by machine may have removed the toughcoat.

hi welcome to the forum a stickied thread at the top of the detailing section http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?461306-Headlight-correction-without-a-PC-Polisher