Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Ye sorry my bad sn00p, Plusnet took over Metronet, and Pipex took over F2S. Bit of confusion.
Eitherway I agree with your post, they've biten the hand that feeds them, numerous times.
Parker is fking useless lad. No dealer would give you even close to that!
Glass's guide is what you need, its what trade use for estimates.
http://www.glass.co.uk/uk/en/
Trade in, depends on milage/condition but your looking at probably 6/7k me thinks.
^Plus.Net went bad when Pipex took them over, before they had all that bad boy pipe and other throttling methods employed they were a good ISP. They went bad and I went to F2S, who also went bad.
Zen/Newnet/IDnet are about the only ISP's i'd recommend atm. Zen is and always has been a superb ISP.
np.
In fact, i know just the person. Lad off here is selling his 172 Cup for 5k plus p/x. I brought my last last 172 off him, he's from yorkshire way.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=149647
Nice chap, he might be interested in a p/x on your Golf. Can't go wrong buying a car...
About 6-8bhp expected and 15ft/lb torque typically. But mapping can make the car more usable by widening the powerband and increasing the rev limiter to 8k.
Personally id go with this:
ITG Panel filter
S/S Wider bore catback
Decat
Inlet matching
Mapping
In that order.
Welcome fella, hope you find the 172 your after. Theres plenty about. Just be sure to look at and drive a few before you buy. Like every car theres good ones and bad ones, however apart from interior rattles, theres not much wrong with them.
Things to watch for:
Worn alcantara seats...
Right spoke to Renault UK (again) and they basically said I was out of luck, trim parts are only covered for a period of 1 year after purchase. Basically i argued the longevity of the product, stating that wear and tear is not the same as use. You cannot drive the car without the steering wheel...
Just phoned my local dealer, who was COMPLETELY unhelpful, and said they will not cover it, nor will any other dealer. Fking ridiculous!
Said "Nah you've got no chance, that'll be chargable. We don't cover trim like that"
Basically ended up bitching that the life of the steering wheel is two...
Indeed, basically we should all whinge like hell. End of the day this IS a very COMMON problem. It's not one user, and its not on cars with ridiculous miles, these are cars under 3 years old, and importantly - that have been looked after, we all take pride in our motors. My car is pretty much...
Basically i'd get the inlet matched first, one RR reported 13bhp from just the inlet matching. Then get it mapped, and with some tweaking im sure this would allow for more power with the fuelling changed.
Hillpower / Angelworks / GDI can sort this for you.
After reading that i think i'll be getting a flat blade screwdriver under my left grip, and lifting that one too, then taking some sandpaper to the rubber to degrade it, and then some solvent degreaser to perish the rubber. Cause i'm not walking out of that place without a new steering wheel...
Eh? I'm simply said i'd like to see some performance comparisons against 172/182 both around a track and on a drag, to see if the fact they don't feel as fast is because they are in fact not as fact.
The point is CUPCRAZY you shouldn't have to pay for a fudging steering lock if they were made correctly in the first place. From a design POV it's obvious they're going to be subjected to heat, so to make a steering wheel non-heat resistant if that is the issue then its ludicrous.
IMO its a pointless 2k sidestep. It's no quicker, will still depreciate like hell and won't handle much/any better than your motor.
If you want to change, maybe consider a Meggy, or something totally different. Otherwise my advice would be to keep your car and spend some cash on it, or go on a...