Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Fiddly fucker to get the cover back in. I loosened the gearbox mount, pushed the engine right over and that gave just enough room to wiggle in from the top.
Would also like to know a trick of how it goes in..
Two options to fit it mate. Either loosen the manifold and slide it back 1" or so, or loosen the 3x starter motor bolts, angle it so you can clip the heatshield on, then bolt up again..
The black bracket the dogbone bolts to at the gearbox end should have 2x bolts holding it on.. I can see one of them, check the other is still there...
Nope, an hours work. nice and simple.
You could replace the hub nuts if you want it to be proper spot on, but no real need if the old ones come off cleanly.
Nope, good to go on those on their own.
Makes sense to do the box oil if it's never been done, but otherwise fine to use if it's only a couple of years old.
While you've got the fuel rail guard off, it gives easier access to the oil filter...
That said, it's a 2 second job to remove it if you service it at a different time.
Process to swap that mount:
Battery and airbox out.
Undo 18mm nut. Whack the stud with a hammer (can sometimes take a fair old whack until the box drops).
Undo 2x 13mm nuts. Bolts are captive underneath, but will probably fall out.
Lift mount off.
Install in reverse order. You might need a...
If it's a 16mm head, it could be from anywhere in that area. Could be one of the ones that mount the gearbox spider to the box itself..
or could be one that bolts the box to the block, but there are so many doing that, you probably wouldn't notice it missing.
My bet, either gearbox mount...