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The temp gauge on your dash only shows the engines coolant temp and not the actual oil temp... This in no way reflects the temperature of the engine oil. Engine coolant comes up to temp pretty damn fast in both NA and Turbocharged engines but the oil temp can take a good 15-20mins (if not longer...

The cheaper generic readers are good at best for code reading. The live data they churn out is hit and miss; they will be strong on one make of vehicle but weak on another. Also, some of them speak in "Chinglish" which is funny but not always helpful. Danny is right, they do not compare to a...

Yeah the belt is walking a little... maybe incorrect belt tension but let 2Techs do their job and sort it mate. I hear very good things about them. Mick

top end no, bottom end yes... but be bloody carefull. Are you changing the bottom sprocket also or are you just running the outer solid pulley?

Another "as per Danny said"... 100% use a timesert rather than a heli-coil. Okay, it means taking the head off but they dont un-wind like helicoils and if you choose to do the oppersite be sure to tell anyone you let service the car know it has one so they aren't tripped up when they remove the...

Its the single wire to the alternator on its rear face... and its Mick (unless you pay) ;)

Re: Spark plug infomation Have you had any messages appear on the dash like "injection fault" or "anti-pollution fault"? I ask cos the 197/200 is getting common for the cam position sensor which causes a loud tick similar to injectors... CLIP time will confirm this. That pulley movement doesn't...

A faulty CTS will never throw an ODBII code which is why we never rely on "code reading" to trace problems. The live data however will and will look odd as they become inaccurate between certain ranges which the ECM translates to a temp reading (which it takes as gospel as there is no...

if its actual wiring then yeah, it *may* be beyond your skill set but i don't know what you do for a living. Personally i would advise you to remove the plug and look at the pins in the multiplug itself. Get some decent electrical cleaner and /or WD40 and give both the connector and pedal...

I'd deal with the DF002 first before replacing the TB. The amber ZigZag lamp is telling you there is a connection problem and i'd hazzard a guess that its the pedal/pedal wiring at fault. Mick

dampened pulleys are supposed to be replaced with aux belts and timing belts but they never get done due to price. Another great money maker that came about in the late 90's

No difference to you but it is there for a bloody good reason which is why it was put there. Its sole function is to aid cooling of the engine oil by adding a water cooled jacket... do you know what your actual oil temp is when driving? The car runs a turbo charger so theres one good reason for...

Haynes manual 1 spanner difficulty rating.... be careful! lol at the scare tactics though - the dealerships used to do this also. I have seen a K9K EGR valve lose its adaptives from being unplugged before though but thats a different matter. Out of curiosity/stupidity i'm gonna ask... what...

100% the diff circlip gone twaaaang.

So you didn't trust he settings that some dialed in and ran without issue no? The lights are on because the steering angle sensor is saying something isn't right and because of this it cannot execute the ESP/TC program (So switches off). Its not a sensor issue which is why it goes off until you...

I sound like a broken record today with this... needs proper diagnostics mate. The red light staying on indicates there is a connection problem somewhere on the car and its not necesarily on the ECM circuit (Confirmed by the UCH allowing the starter to run for 3 secs). It could be a wiring...

Coolant temp sensor is a safe bet but really the car needs proper diagnostics to see exactly what is causing the poor idle condition as it could be many things (faulty injection or ignition). Guessing can get expensive and waste your time so its not always "us" just after your cash. Mick

Did you check the wire to the charge circuit is fine/intact as its common for snapping? Mick

Or, another suggestion... why not take it back to the guy that did it and (whilst being nice) explain the situation. If he is the genuine mechanic you claim he should check it for you and rectify any problems and for free (unless the timing turns out to be spot on in which case you buy him a...

Oh dear, sounds like the SRS ECM may have triggered the primary and secondary driver airbag lines. You will need CLIP to confirm this but if it has you'll need a replacement SRS ECM as they are use once items. Mick

Thats it, remove the two 10mm bolts then up-end the rail. Disconnect the injector multiplug, slide out the lock pin then pull it clear then replace.

Why not buy a type-approved, non-genuine part from an autofactors for around £230... does exactly the same thing as the genuine item ;)

1) Dale - R26.r - meganesport 2) Boomerbang2006 - ph1 172 - cliosport.net 3) ericooper - ph1 225 - meganesport - (work depending) 4) salty - ph2 225 cup - meganesport 5) domsclio182 - 182 - cliosport 6) breamy - 182 - cliosport 7) EnthuZiaZt- BMW Z3 2.0L - zroadster 8) theduck - z3 2.0l 9)...

Its slightly different on a phase 1 so my bad for not looking at what you drive... just get so used to people saying "imob fault" its a knee-jerk responce. A ph1 doesnt have a UCH per say but a multi-timer unit.

Jesus titty-fuckin christ, that's gotta be mentally fast!

They are replaceable yes but its not a DIY job i'm afraid unless you've got a decent bearing press in your kitchen.

Nope, i honestly doubt its an alternator issue as the charge circuit is completely isolated from the LED in the clockset as its UCH controlled. Another reason i believe this not to be the case is that nothing else is playing up. Mick

Prob will be the bearing but be sure to check the bottom ball joint, track-rod end and bottom arm bushes to see if they're the cause of your free play. Mick

Welcome to the mad house that is Renault ownership... enjoy!

A genuine OE Bosch is between £90-120. A quality NGK/NTK item is £65-80... why bother risking a £50 ching-chong 'universal' cheapo when this sensor is ultimatly responsible for the correct running/fuelling your car. A universal one may work or appear to work but may also sting your pocket by...