Search results

I've had a few of these F9Q's in recently with similar issues... they've mostly been glow plug/Thermoplunger issues. Needs to go somewhere with either CLIP or a fairly decent bit of professional kit as an eBay generic scanner won't touch this. Mick

Matt, yours had a bit more than that

For some reason i thought he had a 197... sorry, brain farted. I would still try the pedal test to rule out thrust bearing noise. Mick

Hard to say without seeing/hearing but i suspect clutch/DMF. With the engine running try pressing the clutch pedal slightly and hold it for a few seconds. Noise gone? If so its possibly the slave cylinder but if not try pressing it all the way... does the noise go? Mick

The Peugeot issue is caused by several things though; such as water ingress, and lack of surge protection... the cars are still coming out with the same silly issues to. This issue will be something silly i suspect.

Same on all 16v petrol engines. Just be carefull taking them out of the 1.4/1.6 plastic manifolds as they're normally in tight and break.

Just replied - I can easily de-configure the SRS components for you if you'd prefer at the sametime. Mick

SRS is a self-diagnosing system so if the light is still on there is either a problem with the trigger line resistence values OR you have another issue somewhere. Eitherway, a code reading session would be a good place to start so you can see exactly what the line values are and the faults that...

The MIL will most likely be on because of the poor idle/missfire. I've got a 1.4 16v Megane II in the workshop waiting for me on Wednesday with exactly the same fault so will report back (unless you manage to resolve it between now and then). Mick

Yep as the brake pedal switch is a vital sensor to that system... obviously, because it needs to know when you touch the brake/clutch pedals to 'cut' the system opperation.

The error code is written to memory - removing the battery will not clear it. If however the issue has been resolved *some* faults will allow the MIL to self-extinguish after 3 fault free running cylces of the engine though the code will remain in memory as a historic event. I don't know if a...

replace

Always check the wiring first then physically inspect the sensor and target for any faults. if no luck and all connections are good replace the sensor.

Alternator/charge circuit fault most likely and will no doubt end in a new alternator and aux. belt kit. Needs checking out by someone that knows how to diagnose correctly though cos it could also be a battery fault. Mick

Chances are you have 100% caused this so retrace all your steps and undo everything you did. Theres no way simply removing and replacing the dash top would've caused this... are we getting the full story? Look for any pinched, stretched or broken wires in all the areas you worked in. Mick

I always disconnect the dogbone as this allows the engine to swing on the two top mounts allowing the front r19 mount to lift clear of the subframe once the 4 bolts and 1 nut have been removed of course. You also have to move the PAS line which is bolted to the gearbox at the rear... or be brave...

100% no leaks? You either have a blockage, air lock or faulty/f**ked water pump. I'd throw in a fault with the head gasket to but i'd rule the obvious and cheaper faults out first. Mick

Bring it in matey and i'll look her over. Could be anything on the running gear but i don't think it'll be ARB... more likely TRE, TCA or bottom ball joint(s). Mick

You will have to remove the clockset and de-solder the smd-led or flood the plastic socket that the led lives in with something like silicon.

Its an electric throttle plate Sam, not got one.

As per the phone call today matey, if you don't get any joy with the simple stuff drop it off and i'll fix it for you in the new year. Mick

Fred, it is pretty naughty in a straight line... corners are a different story (because you forget you're in a spaz bus). Scenic bottom end just needs the RS compresion ratio and cylinder head to function with the standard higher power output of the Clio RS

Martin, gimme a shout when you get the Speedlines. I'd very much be interested in those wheels for my Laguna so PM me when you're ready/get yer thumb out lol. Mick

Erm... it can't? The only difference between the bottom ends that I was aware of is the compression ratio. You can then mount a 2.0 sport head, inlet plenum, etc to the Scenic block - this is how we did James23's Scenic. Mick

Probably the hazard light switch

Make sure everything is plugged in correctly especially the MAP Sensor.

Have you trieed the rest as above? Mick

That's £580 fully inclusive with no hidden extras. This price will most likely be changing slightly in the new year so if you want to take advantage of the lower price I'd book it this week. Mick

Looks okay but is that the actual item? Just call GSF and get one for your car then know its right... can't cost much more. Mick

Its part of the UCH i'm afraid and not user serviceable. Earth points are footwell and in boot load space.