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Indeed, forget that i'm clearly on crack.... for some reason I though he was biking it #dontaskwhatmademethinkthatshiz

Damn, that's not nice! Possibly the PAS Pressure switch then, fingers crossed for you.

Mate you're F'n nuts... I hope you got a good saddle and some pads in those shorts - good luck!

That would have been your problem then... thank who ever fudged that up for you!

I could come out to you though I'm at J25 of the M1 which is about 45mins from Wellingborough. I carry proper diagnostics in the car plus leads and coil packs in my stockpile... though I don't have a Clio II H02 on board at present. Dan hasn't sent me the CS bank details yet so I shouldn't...

VagCom is great and I use it myself but don't expect anything of that calibre for Renaults mate. I've got an Alliance Clip and a few other pieces of SPX diagnostic kit for other vehicles which I use daily in a professional capacity. I purchased a £17 ELM327 interface for giggles from eBay to...

Videos always make it hard to diagnose noises IMO I honestly doubt that it needs hydraulic lifters as the F4R uses a totally different, more reliable setup compared to the older F7R. I know you said it had the timing belt done 6k ago but was the dephaser changed? Start cheap and simple...

Ace, and how did you find doing the job? Refitting and retiming is simple as the crank locks via the flywheel with a 7mm drill bit (If you don't have the correct lock pin of course). Just watch out for the timing marks on the D7F Cam pulley as from memory (It's been a while since i've touched a...

What "issues" did you have to warrant the changing of the PAS fluid? Have you accidentally unplugged or knocked anything? (If in doubt, go back and double check). What exactly did you do... walk me thru the job. Mick

This is possibly one of the simplest circuits to wire but making it work with OEM switches isn't going to be cheap - Chances are your car will have the basic infastructure but it'll be missing the key components such as a control relay in the UCH/Fusebox. Firstly, you will need to add this and...

Possibly yes - the MIL being on is to inform you of a Level 1 or Level 2 fault... codes can still be logged even with the MIL being off.

If there's an obvious problem with a sensor it will cause headaches. The K9K is very sensitive to sensor faults - every sensor on the engine is linked by means of a common 5v live and if one fails, they all fail... this gives "no start" problems.

The Haynes manual also tells you that to remove a wheel the battery leads should first be removed. Honestly, just remove the bolts... it won't warp the head

Most times when the post-CAT H02 triggers the MIL the car just needs to go for a bloody good run... if it gives you anymore trouble it really needs the exhaust gases analysing to rule out CAT failure Vs H02 sensor fault.

Time to get to Renault for the updated sensor and loom section to be fitted. If you don't like that idea you can buy it from a decent autofactors for less but expect to pay around £40 for it opposed to Renaults £65... tell them you want the "blue one" and no, the existing multiplug will NOT...

Nope, not for taking them out... just unscrew em and rip the head off. Putting them back in you start from the inner and work out in a clockwise, circular motion: EXHAUST 8 - 4 - 1 - 5 - 9 7 - 3 - 2 - 6 - 10 INLET If you don't already own one, a Haynes manual will be a great help

aux belt kits yes, timing belt kits no - Use "Gates" Power grip or "SKF" kits if possible. The Continetal and Dayco kits are good to but the tensioners can be hit and miss.

If neither Birchdown or Paul @ RST couldn't find it then I seriously doubt a main dealer will... they'll proberbly say it needs a new ECM! Shame you're not exactly close to Nottingham as I love a challange me and i'd take a look at it for nothing.

Sounds like a faulty dephaser pulley from the video.

Yeah they're not cheap to do even if like myself you can do them yourself but honestly, if you're going to all this effort doing the job "do it once, do it right"... stick the aux belt kit on the shopping list!

Seems to be a few too many timing belt failures at the minute. Timing belt and other ancils/manifolds off then just unbolt the beggar Honestly, don't - it will cost you more money in the long run than repairing... engine hacks seem like a good, simple idea but they can be troublesome as...

Oil level okay? When was it last serviced and is there any history stating timing belt change? Mick

How? Serious question! Here's a rough, all be it, estimated breakdown based on DIY not garage: Head rebuild by local engineering shop - (depending on number of valves required) - £75-200 Head gasket - £33 Head Bolts - £13 Timing belt kit - £87 Consumable service items (Oil, filter, coolant) -...

Yes, Yes, and No Ignore the serpentine belt tool and simply remove the top bolt from the tensioner to release it and then use a large jubilee clip to do it back up. I use a Snap-On serp rachet when I do them but everytime i've attempted to use the 3/8 keyway on a tensioner they've snapped on...

Who did it go to? CTS - Coolant Temp Sensor ATS - Air Temp Sensor Personally, i'd advise you do not take it anywhere near a main dealer as they will use it as an excuse to extract all of your cash. Find decent diagnostics place in your area and they'll do the job for much less!

Everytime i've had a Clio II with an unplugged potentiometer it's held 2k rpm not 'WOT'

The flashing MIL denotes a level 2 fault meaning no generic ODB code is stored as non quite fit the bill. The fault is being flagged/flashed as it has the potential to damage the CAT. Most likely a wiring issue but you will need to get a tech have a look at the live data screen to see what's...

+1

Looks okay but don't expect ABS, SRS, UCH or any other system access other than generic ODBII engine code reading.

Engine swaps all greatly depend on the damage done; unless it's totally catastrophic damage making it un-economical to repair as I always prefer to rebuild rather than replace but that's an area for your man to asses and advise you on really. Either way, the new lump will need loads swapping...