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yeah it would need to be really low for it to cause tapping... lower than the min mark at least. Can you recreate the noise with your head under the bonet or will it only do it when the car is in motion?

IF it's the pressure plate then yes it's a new clutch job... but that's IF. Try feeling the cable out as above first and if it feels anything but smooth check the routing and/or replace the cable with a genuine Renault unit.

depends on how low it is... low oil levels can reduce oil pressure which in turn can cause tapping noises. When waas it last serviced?

ABS can be tested and diagnosed... its normally the older equipment isn't capable ;)

Can't you take it somewhere to be done?

IIRC the entire aux equipment mounting needs to come away from the engine block though to be able to get at some of the water pump bolts... not an as simple job as it seems at first.

Checked your oil level on the dipstick (Not the dash ELC) recently?

Simple answer is, obviously, get it back to whoever did it ASAP to be looked at! It should be impossible to get too much tension on the belt as the tensioner has an "idiot" marker on it that clearly shows the point to which it must be engaged. It can be missed by someone not knowing its there...

Most master cylinders have two circuits but this isn't new and cars have had this for a very long time. Hopefully it is just air and you've not flipped the seal on one circuit and killed the MC (You said above it locks up on Front/Rear oppersite diagonals which is how the circuits are piped to...

Which car are we talking about here, the 172 Cup or the R26 as one is cabled and the other is hydraulic? I'm assuming its the Clio being as you're asking on CS. Has it had a clutch cable recently as the routing could be wrong (Or it could be a crappy universal cable rather than a genuine...

These are some of the easiest systems about to install and get your car running on a base map. Knowing Dave and Carl @ Emerald personally they will also be only to happy to help you out over the telephone with general setup and installation questions but the manual from there website is nothing...

Can't make it either as I'm at Donnington with BTCC that weekend. Loads of pics please!

Homer, is this "Code Reader" of your a generic ODBII Reader by any chance or is it a decent bit of kit? "DLT" and "I/M"? I'm gonna guess its a generic ching-chong code reader from eBay (Or similar). These do not have the ability to access ABS/SRS/TCS/ESP/UCH, etc and most of the systems on the...

Technically yes though you can get away without but no matter which 1.2 unit you have (8v or 16v) at the price of the parts you'd be silly not to!

You need to pinpiont the actual source of the leak to before changing it - Could be a pipe but it could also be the pump... get under it and have a proper look.

Welcome to CS - I have a feeling I spoke to you today(?) Mick

A broken ABS reluctor ring would put the SERV and ABS light on not the Brake warning lamp.

hahaha - Flan is such a pikey! His TT conversions are starting to get good though now they're for other people. Is it still running the standard Clio II pedal mech? If so it's an easy enough job providing you enjoy being upside-down in the drivers footwell. New pedal assembly from Renault is...

Is the resevoir level sensor plugged in to the cap? Are the pad level indicator wire(s) touching metal (If your car has them)? What is the state of your brake lights and brake pedal switch? Hnadbrake switch/wire broken?

To say for sure what is triggering the lights you need diagnostics... this service can be done for £30-45 by an independent if you do some searching - it doesn't have to go to the dealer ;)

LoL - Looks like Mark Dow is in the background? (Right) - Deffo prefer the original image (I wish they'd put some colour on it before clearcoating over the basecoat :o). To put my conceptual art head on the lighting is totally wrong in the PS... way too dark considering all the supposed light...

Just doing my part sir to keep sheddy Renaults on the road one by one plus, i'll find something to bill him for LOL

Were you holding it at 4krpm to over-emphasise the drama or does it genuinely hit that rpm brick wall? +1 - Get it to the shop!

Jimbo, if neglected it *could*, in theory, damage your inlet valves but normally it just makes your car rattle and sound like a diesel... it can also cause 'missfiring' symptoms in cases whilst under load. Any decent 'Specialist' should inspect it at the time though and at least inform you of...

Fine by me judd, just gimme a nudge a few days before you get it all together. I'm in Cardiff this weekend anyhow but i'm gonna be wrecked so not much use i'm afraid.

I've never really looked at full UCH re-configuration before; other than removing tyre pressure monitor function for taxi drivers and key coding that's about as far as i've gone but the above makes sense and I assume this is to allow the 'N3' to cater for the additional inputs required to...

But what would that achieve Ben? You're still gonna spend £400+ on a decent F4R-7XX unit which needs fitting and then you've still got the timing belt and aux belt runs to renew (Stupid if you don't do this or just gluten for punishment). You also assume that the 'new' engine is in good...

That is a supposedly a dealer level piece of equipment - Personally i'd tell you to steer clear of that as it is most certainly what we call a "Clone" and they can do some things very well... they can also do some things that you don't want them to do. One example is I've seen "Clones"...

Conti-tech belts are in orange and black boxes yes and use the OE bearings.

My experience with INA tensioners is they break if you attempt to use the keyway on them... seriously cheap castings. Just spend an extra £25 and buy a genuine Renault service kit and there are no problems.