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Hey,
My rear arches.. this is what needs doing:
Inner arch.. theres a ridge inside, that needs all grinding out properly, re-sealing and made a good job.. it does need doing, cus its bodged at the moment.. water can get in and its bare metal..
Paint the outer arch lip where paint has...
Im probably getting the Parrot Bluetooth Kit... the latest version is fully voice activated and also has a button.. its quite cool... but, you have to have bluetooth!
Ill probably install it meself.. I guess some people would ask quite a bit, heh.
Er.. whats so great about checking the voltage and amps which costs £400?
I took a "flat" battery back once.. (thinking it was the problem, but later found out it wasnt) and they said it was dead.. which is fine, but, it wasnt dead.. just "flat" heh.
Well, if youve checked the voltages with engine running and load and they seem ok, I dont think itll be the alternator.
My starter was £81 or something in the end after I took my old one in - right on the front of the engine on mine.. I think on a Valver its at the back and not easy - itll...
Could be starter.. I had this, and it got worse right about now - the start of cold weather.
No bushes in the end, so it was turning at an angle.. and needed MEGA juice.. and it didnt always have it. The times I did get it started, it sounded bad and made a bad clunk as it wasnt dis-engaging...
Now is probably the wrong time to say, you shoulda inserted an inline fuse.. hehe.
Hmm, can you see melted bits? See any smoke? Are you 100% you got the voltage wrong way round?
Forgot to say,
You can get the rev counter working - I did - I didnt have a rev counter in my Mk1 Phase3.. and put some dials in from an S" with it.
Cost me £75.00 for it to be converted to electronic then I wired it into the DIS module myself using a massive long cable to behind the dials.
Trolley jacks probably the best bit of kit ever..
Not many places on the Mk1, so I used a bit of wood so it didnt do any damage to bits.. dunno about Mk2.
They give you a list when ya pass.. or its in the magazine they send ya.
I know, tho, some cars are exempt if they are high performance.. with some companies.
I think I might go for them.. mainly cus I can at least lower the front to the lowest possible I can get away with.. I go down multistoreys now and if I go too quick, that bumper makes a bad noise.. heh.
They are adjustable on rebound.. so kinda worth it I think.. front can be sorted, back...
My Mk1 Clio wheels are 36.. (Valver alloys)
They fill the arch a treat, but they do scrub on the back - wont for much longer.. they kind dont now after some work, bodyshop is finishing it tho and sealing it all.
Mine worked as standard.. the light flashing will be the immobiliser.
Mines a special edition Mk1 Phase3 tho so the central locking could have just been a feature.
How do you get into the car now? As standard, I used the fob and aimed it inside the car to unlock all the doors..
the dials will go in.. Temperature will work, speedo will work, petrol will work, dash lights will work, oil level wont and rev counter wont.
Rev counter wont due to the new ignition system the 1.2 has in the Mk1 Phase3.
And No to the wheel arch neons.