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RR is the longest line, so that's usually the first. Each is paired with the opposite corner. You just select each one manually as you go, it doesn't move on to the next one for you.

Bleed all 4 corners as well, not just the rears.

There shouldn't be any air in the pump as long as you didn't let the system drain. Bleeding the brakes using the pressure bleeder in combination with pumping the pedal should do it.

I thought it just needed a new alternator and battery.

Worth changing your key fob battery if you've never changed it.

10% off all Milwaukee stuff on PowerToolMate with MIL10

It's just surface rust, could be sorted if you can be arsed spending and grand getting both quarters sprayed 😅

Need a Rayon glass polishing disc on a machine with Carpro Ceriglass. Might not get everything out though.

How 😂

Mine is only a few months old and the bits in the bottom rows have surface rust too. Need a spray with wd40 I think to stop them rusting over.

Might be a bit better with more dampening control.

Abs faults are usually self clearing once the thing in question has been fixed. Odd that nothing shown up on a decent scanner 🤔

If you have access to a half decent scanner, it will show abs faults. Cheap readers don't read abs for some reason.

Probably an abs sensor that's gone, I've had a couple over the years go with the same fault. The brake switch would normally just show serv and esp light. Switch needs adjusting as Daz says. The plunger is a ratcheting type, can push it in click by click and test it as you go.

I've got one of these. https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/electrical-lighting/lighting/unilite-slr-500-led-rechargeable-folding-work-light-500-lumens.htm Close to your budget and is magnetic and has a hook to hang it on things.

That sounds about right from what i remember.

Same. One will be fuel line and the other for the carbon cannister system.

With RSTuner you don't have to have the airbags plugged in, you actually want the opposite. It'll tell you which ones are not detected and you just disable those.

Pre cat O2 sensor is probably the likely culprit. Around £60 for a Bosch LS6046.

That video appears to be a bit jumpy for me, so can't tell, but is the immobiliser light going out?

This, otherwise you'll be fighting the bar.

https://www.kamracing.co.uk/renault-oe-arb-bracket-renault-clio-mk2-rs172-rs182.html

Yeah, outer ARB clamp has come off/broken. You can see the other side is clamped fine.

Assume ball joint nuts mean the pinch bolt ones? The two holding it to the lower arm I mentioned are more like 62Nm.

Instead of splitting the ball joint and risk damaging the rubber boot, undo the two bolts holding it to the lower arm. Hub nut torque is 280Nm.

If battery voltage is good, try a new tdc/crank sensor between the engine and gearbox.

Maybe also try doing the 3 top plate screws up a bit more than you usually would. Mine are paint marked and have never moved.

Yeah the top nut. Guessing you've tried swinging off the wheel to see if there's play anywhere?

That's normal by the look of it and wouldn't happen once the top plate is bolted on. Is the central nut tight? Remove the black dampening screw and the gold collar underneath and check that the big nut is tight.

They'll be fine, i've ran cheap bolts like that before.