Search results

You going Friday?

This or the cable has seized in the liner.

Even harder for him in Florida. I bet there can't be many of those engines over there.

Good stuff.

Yeah see what you mean. Never had to do one when my brother had his 225. Yeah thermoplastic boots for outer and rubber inner, like a few Ford ones i've done.

What oil are you using, 10w60?

Ahh must be tight for space then.

I usually use the Oetiker clamps like pic 1. How much clearance do you need? Can you clamp them down tight and then flatten the tab a bit more with a hammer, i've done that before.

No way... That small of a thing can cause that noise! That's mad 😂

That's how they came from factory, just taped up. It's the ECU wiring. You could put fresh tape on if you wanted.

If you're having problems bleeding, try reverse bleeding it.

30mins max. That's lying on your back on axle stands.

I think they're all TTV units, so all the same.

Last i heard he was at Renault Arnold Clarke at Gemini.

Yeah Purflux made the oil filter and cabin filter.

Have you got a rough list of what you had?

Snapping the head off and welding a nut to the remaining thread is usually the end game 😔

Most cars have a plastic membrane shielding the door card from water dripping in from the door/glass, but not on these.

Yeah same 8mm square. The washer on the gearbox is a copper crush washer, can find them cheap in kits or individual on ebay. Look for M16 copper crush washers.

Yeah, sure i saw you a month or so ago.

Ahh yeah, you need to be a paid member to see it. Basically you need to take the door card off and redo the seals. You must be the other silver 182 i've seen around Warrington?

This thread will help. https://cliosport.net/threads/water-leaking-into-footwells-how-to-renew-inner-door-seal.829946/

Either running down the seal from higher up or leaking through from behind the door card.

Top end job would involve taking the rocker cover off, which means the timing belt will need to come off. £700 is a good ball park number.

No you need 10 guages to verify that the pump is correct.

Well obviously not if its 25psi out it would be broken and you'd spot that with a second gauge. What i should have said is, if you know it's out you can dial in a few extra psi to compensate.

No that's everything.

As long as you use the same gauge every time, it wont matter if it's out compared to another. My Halfords pump is 1-2psi out compared to my Longacre racing gauge, but i always use that to check pressures so the readings are relative to me.

I would just go OEM tbh.

I'm guessing the outer bushes where it's clamped to the lower arm, but worth checking the inner bushes as well.