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Yeah, had mine on about 2 years now. Fit perfectly, although they retain the flexi link between the rear beam and underbody hardlines. I believe the BRT ones are longer to remove the need for the flexi, if you preferred that.

Not really. I've never felt the need for one.

It won't fit with those style top mounts. You'll either have to run without the brace or change the top mounts to pms ones.

That might do it 😂

When you do remove it, replace with a nice stainless socket cap bolt. That's what I did on mine.

Good shout. BH stuff is very good.

I use ACF on my coilovers and they still look relatively new since they were put on 2 years ago, and i haven't exactly kept up with the maintenance of them. They do a thicker version called Corrosion Block which might be better for you.

They do make some good stuff tbh.

What do you mean, he only mentions his mate Imran at In2detailing a few times per video 😂

Ahh yeah it is.

Can't argue with that for £4 😂 Looks like i'll have to get some.

You do if you want to wax or polish the car 😅

No arch liners.

My Klin Korea twisted loop towel has been good for 2 years now. I'd say any of the top Korean towels would be good enough.

Was going to say, that's had a poor job done previously.

Clio's like to eat lambda sensors. Probably more so if it's not mapped for the cams. I bet when you remove the old sensor, that it's more coked up than Danniella Westbrook.

Nice find.

Follow this guys guide for the timing.

Was common on the 1*2 to go over by about 10Nm on the dephaser just to make sure.

Some of them Bluetooth ARB brackets 😂

You could be right. Wonder if your pump is on it's way out then?

It'll eat your fuel lines and the factory pump probably won't supply the volume of fuel needed.

The car's fuel system won't run E85 without significant upgrades tbh. Are you actually running E85?

The actual cam belt is pretty strong, very rare to see one snap due to it's age. As said, it's usually the aux belt taking it out or a pulley/tensioner failure that'll be the cause.

No need to run it like that for 20 degrees. I've ran mine in 30+ and it's fine.

I usually start at 25psi and then bleed them off a few times until they stay consistently at 28psi hot.

Most of the time yeah, although you can have a full oil level and low/zero pressure.

Pressure he means, not level.

They're just confirmation lights to tell you it's actually dead 😅

You could get another engine for £500 ish but it would probably need belts doing for that price. Then labour on top... You're looking at £1000 minimum. Might be worth seeing what insurance say. Probably a £3.5-4k car privately and £2.5-3k as insurance will see it.