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Just go to the play store under my apps and there will be updates waiting.

It won't have headlight level adjustment then, as that's automatic and controlled by the level sensor on the rear beam. The dimmer switch will be for the dash, give it a try.

Does yours have xenon headlights?

No 😂 It's the dash backlight brightness.

Yeah similar to what I thought with mine. I've had decent results with Bergen taps, so thought I'd go with these. They've had a fair old hit with a 3lb lump hammer and seem to be holding up.

Those punches look similar to the ones I got earlier this year for £8.

Have you nudged the dimmer switch near the esp and cruise buttons?

Supercharged would be the way I'd go for a track car. Smoother power delivery, so they're kinder to the gearbox and less heat management around the bulkhead area because of no turbo manifold needed.

Makes sense then if you were using the 8° tool 😅

That's what I mean, it 'can' be done but as you've said things wouldn't like up properly 😅

Both 180° rotated is ok yes, but not just one. I just find it hard to believe it wasn't spotted sooner and that the car did quite a few miles. It would have ran like s**t, timed up like that 😅

I mean the horseshoe tool. One cam slot would be below the centreline and the other would be above, meaning the tool wouldn't slot in straight.

How did you manage to do the timing if one cam is 180° out compared to the other? The tool wouldn't go in because the slots are offset from centre.

Like this. It's a really hard rubber.

Well if yours haven't, you could just use the OEM rubber on the top possibly.

One of those magic eraser sponges, but go easy on it and test in an inconspicuous area first.

Can just about make out how mine is here OEM rubber pad, then the spring perch with the smallest spacer ring on and then the plastic ring on top of that to stop metal to spring contact. The rubber at the top is the BC item.

Both sets I've fitted have been perfect from factory, hardly any droop when unloaded.

OEM spring rubbers on the bottom and just the rubber ones that come with the BC's on top. Don't need to mess with the shocks unless your springs are falling out when jacking up.

Labour should be around £200 at a garage. £500 sounds extortionate.

Possible yeah. I really don't know how the alarm is wired in on these 🤔

https://www.proamracing.co.uk/product-page/rear-exhaust-hanger-mount-kit

Should be mint then really. If i ever need to touch mine, i'll be going the stainless route for the sake of £40-50 whatever they are.

Get some of the rear exhaust hanger mounts from @Tomotek aka Pro-Am Racing. Nice bit of stainless steel instead of rusty metal.

Cooling has been known to work i think, just a shame no one does an off the shelf kit for them. I believe @NorthloopCup had a cooler setup on his a few years ago. It should just be a case of fitting a small cooler to the low pressure line of the system, but i've never looked into it. Better...

Who knows... You could try doing the test again and disconnect the feed to the alternator and see if it goes completely.

Yeah mine is silent too. I'd be surprised if it's the diff tbh, maybe something internal in the box possibly.

10mA is nothing really 🤔 My draw was over 300mA.

I've heard it can be play in the CV on shafts and with a diff it's putting more load through.

Easy to tell, the driver's side has a female plug and the passenger side is male.