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Canon 5d MK3 or 7d MK2 depending which I bring.

Page 11 explains what i've just mentioned.

Possibly me (not pro, just handy with a camera)

The pistons need to be at mid travel before you try and move the cams round, otherwise the valves will hit them. Then set to TDC once the horseshoe is in.

Cams 180 degrees out maybe and it's trying to open the valves as you turn it? Take a pic of where the slots are now.

I doubt it should be springing back. Have you got the horseshoe tool in the slotted end yet?

Could get people to throw food and drinks out the window as they pass :unsure:

And not even clean the engine bay or boot up.

I will be Friday night i think mate.

I'm no pro, but i'll take the title for the day ?

Yeah that is true, although i wouldn't mind as long as it was a decent position. Just thought it'd be a good idea seeing as previous years there hasn't really been any track side pics from close up.

What do you reckon the chances are they'll let me take pics track side @Nik As far as i know i'd need public liability insurance, which i haven't got ?

Search for AWMotorworks he's got his own business now.

Sounds like pads.

Old one was non genuine?

My mates anthracite 1.2's didn't have the paint on the bolt tapers from factory ? Weird how yours have.

Need to do mine again. Only did them probably not even this time last year :cautious: Will seal with Gyeon Trim this time.

Lambda voltage is meant to fluctuate.

Bet it never had the spacers behind the discs and bottomed the bearing out against the stub axle, or they were on the wrong way round. The hub nut needs torquing to 175Nm as well. Too much or too little will cause premature bearing wear/failure.

This. Bevel the edges slightly and leave about an 1/8th inch gap between.

Rear seatbelt points underneath the rear seats with eyebolts and the straps crossed over. Must safer (angle wise) with a roll cage to mount them to though.

Love it mate! Where did that put you in class (not sure if you've mentioned it)?

I doubt it's critical that they need to know 100% what car you're in. Unless it's a Panzer tank, then probably fair enough.

Yeah he's quick in anything really. Blyton is a good track to start on, as you know.

Danny's is rapid!

Mine are just nipped up by hand and haven't come loose. So i'd say the 20nm would be close to what mine are at.

Is it coming from the driver's side wheel arch area? If so, it'll be the carbon canister.

What was it? As i mentioned in your other thread, i can look at the airbag light for you if needed.

God knows. Shouldn't spark on you though...

More than likely I'd say.