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Start off on one of the highest amp settings and work your way down until you get a reading, otherwise you could blow a fuse in the meter. A decent one will have some protection overload though.
Not that it'll be drawing loads anyway I wouldn't imagine, a couple hundred milliamps at most.
Set the multimeter to Amps DC, take the -neg wire off the battery (fully charged), stick the black probe on the battery and the red probe to the cable you've took off the battery.
Then start unplugging things and watch for the current draw to drop.
I'm guessing alternator diode pack.
Yeah should be there mate.
Not booked anything track wise, i might look at taking pics of the track action as there hasn't been much the past few years.
Try removing the seal between the bonnet and scuttle panel. That's a low pressure area and the speed of the air moving over the top of the windscreen might be enough to create a slight suction to help pull hot air out.
Have you monitored coolant and oil temps to see how hot it's actually getting?
If it's just track sessions at 20 minutes a time, they're not really needed.
Maybe look at what @Tomotek has done on his race car. They need to be in a low pressure area for them to work, can't just slap them anywhere.
The Pure Motorsport stud kit goes rusty eventually too, but i've give mine a wipe over with acf50 and they stay black.
I suggest you do that on your next set Dan.