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2:10 with AD08R's, Whiteline ARB, H&R Coilovers, Rear seats removed.
That was with Harry's Lap Timer. Have also had a 2:07 on the app, but i take the times with a pinch of salt as the 1ghz gps in phones is not very accurate.
Not had the conditions to test the Quaife diff or Dunlop Direzza...
Find someone breaking a 172 on here and get the sensor with stub axle included. Just a straight swap then.
Can be a pig to get the old sensor out and new one in.
As far as I know it's so that the head of the valve can be made from a more resistant material and is then welded to the stem. High revs cause vibrations and strain due to the speed they are moving, so they separate at this weld.
Supertech valves are high grade stainless steel for the intake...
Standard valves are shite and probably the number one killer after aux belt taking out the cambelt.
Plus with cams, 99% of the time you will be raising the rev limit to get the most out of them. In the danger zone for standard valves then.
Anyone used these?
Klin Korea Green Monster.
Seen a few video reviews and they look quite special. Designed for the dirty jobs where you'd normally throw away the dirty microfiber after a few uses. These just wash clean like new.
Got some to try, so will report back when I've tested them.
His engine was rebuilt and lasted 300 miles after £1000+ of work.
I'm sure everyone wouldn't be too happy either.
Nothing to do with service schedules.
O-ring on and pop the shaft in yeah.
The wider abs ring is for cup and 182 cup pack.
New nut should be fine, but you could use the old one if not too battered.
If you went with catcam 421 or 428, to get the best you'd fit supertech valves and uprated springs.
With 438's you can use OEM but for peace of mind i'd fit supertech valves also.
That's the way i'd do it.
As said, pot luck.
They like to drop valves for fun with high revs.
I tend not to rev them all the way to the limit (power is gone before then anyway).