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Worn inner joints can cause some vagueness in the steering yes.
I think from memory you should have electronic power steering? If so a worn steering motor would give you variations in the resistance on the steering wheel, its not the only possible symptom but it's one I'd get checked first
An airlock in the abs pump is a possibility, when you say you're bleeding the traditional way are you just doing it manually using the brake pedal or have you got something such as an eezibleed that your using?
I've always found it easier to disconnect the cables from the heater box instead of the controls and then swap them over if need be once everything is out and easily accessible
I used a hairdryer to remove mine, found it to be a bit more gentle as opposed to a heat gun, came off fine and then removed the left over glue residue with some autoglym tar/adhesive remover
Thats my thought, and to be fair I didn't pay much for it, I want to keep it going but financially it may be worth more to me as spares for my current one
Didn't notice anything when I looked it over, I knew about the spoiler before buying so I'm not too worried about any accident damage, I also trust the guy I bought it off.
That's option 3 that I didn't mention, admittedly I haven't had a proper look over it yet but it's arguably a better shell than my current car, decisions decisions.
Its also got climate control too
@Chris_Beer I am tempted but I know I'd end up spending an absolute fortune, and that would...
So a couple of weeks ago I bought a 182-172 manifold link pipe off a member on here, I go to pick it up and end up chatting as you do, and to cut a long story short I buy his cup too (after some negotiation with my wife of course ;)) anyway to the burning question, what do I do with it...
As @RichValver has said the engine and box will be fine.
If your subframe hasn't been off in a long time I imagine you'll encounter issues with the captive nuts inside the chassis legs. I certainly did when I took mine off a few weeks ago, I found the best way around this was to break the...
My loom has been cut down for nearly a year now, had no troubles until 2 weeks ago when the car wouldn't start the day before loading it up for first track day of the year.
Exactly the same symptoms as you've described @L_murra, turned out to be corrosion on the immobiliser relay in the engine...
Some came with locks on both doors, so I wonder whether this was an option from factory?
Boot lock operates the same way too, in that it needs power to operate, there's no mechanical way to operate (unless you take off the plastic panel and push the link rod around)
If there's no mechanical lock then no, you'll need power of some sort to activate the central locking.
You could pop the battery back on and lock the car using the button on the dash with passenger door open, then remove battery and lock the passenger door with the key.
There should be enough...
I had considered AVO's along with AST's as well but I couldn't justify the cost of the AST's just yet, ended up getting a very good deal finance wise from Corby Motorsport on these Gaz Gold's so the wife gets to go away where she wants again this year ;)
Considering the fact that I didn't get a chance to have set everything up properly they were fantastic, once I'd got the damping set for the conditions I felt I could push the car more than I ever have previously despite the rain.
As for spring rates I've gone pretty hard, 800 front and 450...
Few photos from another wet day at Castle Combe (03.03.17)
Possibly one of the nicest cars on the day, was a shame the weather was against is as this would have gone very well