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Yep they'll work, all same connections. They're plug and play across the mk2 range.

Got rid of all of mine too, certainly helps with loading my car onto the trailer as the bumper has to come off when loading/unloading

You've nothing to lose by getting the alternator back into its correct position, as mentioned the tensioner is spring loaded so will automatically tension the belt to the required load, it is adjustable for the purpose of changing the belt or components run by the aux belt. There are a few...

Like I said mines been fine, I've been as careful as I can to cut wires right back to the plugs in order to minimise any risks. I can't say 100% that it won't, the only completely safe way is to remove everything including the pin to be certain

To be fair I just cut mine back, haven't done anything special with the wiring that's left and had no issues in the 18 months since mate

Safest method would be to trace them back to uch/fuse box/wiring plug, whichever it happens to be and then remove the pin from the relevant plug

M8 30 bolt rings a bell but could be wrong, assuming the tensioner has pulled the alternator to where it is and the aux belt is still tensioned then your alternator has seen better days. If there is some slack in the aux belt then you may get lucky but I wouldn't hold out much hope to be...

When I did my apprenticeship 15+ years ago that's the way we were taught, to always set the foot brake up before handbrake, otherwise there was the chance you'd f things up

That could well be the issue mate, I'd strip the pads out and reset everything then prime/pump the hydraulic side of the brakes first before reattaching and setting the handbrake up. Hopefully that sorts the issue for you Ads

When you refitted the calipers did you 'pump' the brakes up to set the pistons before readjusting the handbrake mechanism?

Personally I'd save any hassle and buy new wishbones, genuine ones are somewhere around £60 a side from memory.

Recon units from bigg red are £100 a piece from memory, no idea about brand new though I'm afraid

Snap on ct8850, rediculoulsy expensive but bloody good bit of kit. But then I was in the trade, so kind of justifiable

Euro car parts only list one front hose for both of my 172's, one standard and the others a cup for reference @Patrick Bateman. I've used the rear pagid hoses before and they've been fine Ads

Track attack race club https://www.trackattackraceclub.com/pages/season-overview.php?season_id=47 @MarkT everything's on there mate

I don't believe it can I'm afraid, the new cage is wider and a tighter for to the shell of the car than the r016/7 cages.

Actually it's probably the handbrake mechanism on the caliper if the cable is OK. If it was the caliper itself I'd have expected the brakes to fail their effeincy test in the rollers

Does the handbrake lever lift up excessively high when operated? If it does then I'd expect to find a broken cable. If not then it's more likely to be a seized caliper or caliper sliders possibly

Wiping the ecu is different to just clearing codes yes. If the ecu has logged crash data then it will need resetting rather than just having codes cleared.

So not much to report on the car in the last month 😧 have picked up some direzzas to try out, and heater box is now out of the car to modify so I have a demister as I'm fed up trying to clear the screen on wet days. In other news I've received my go racing pack from the MSA and had my...

The light is self cancelling, once the faulty component is replaced then the light will go off, no need to erase the code from the system. Yes the ecu will log the code until it is erased but it wont keep the light on.

The roll bar links don't last 5 minutes I'm afraid, if it is the top mount you may be able to feel some clunking/knocking through the top of the strut in the engine bay but really you'd need to remove the strut assembly to check properly. There is a chance it's a broken spring but I'd have...

Suspension top mounts are a common cause for knocking sounds, especially its knocking when stationary. There's a bearing in them that seizes when worn meaning the mount doesnt move smoothly

A diagnostic test is the only way really to find out whats at fault with the airbag system, you don't have to go to Renault but you would need someone with a diagnostic machine capable of showing manufacturer specific fault codes. I believe it is still only an advisory if the airbag light down...

Was good to meet you at Combe (I was the one Dave was showing around :smile:) and you seem to go well too mate, looking forward to being on the grid with you later this year. Can't imagine what Craig and his family must be going through, safe to say we've already made a contribution, and hope...

On a wet day yes you will have trouble to clear the screen. I went a bit overboard and removed everything bar the matrix last year and its a pain to keep putting anti fog on te windows time and time again. Another issue aside from clearing the screen is engine temp on a hot day, the matrix...

That's interesting as it's the lower harness bar that's been putting me off, don't suppose you've got any photos of how it sits relative to your seats have you? Thanks Ads

I didn't think they were too bad to be honest, once I'd put the inner bushes in the right way round. As I said I used a long punch to pull the bracket round and over the bush and then used the standard bolts. Admittedly I had the subframe off the car so I had plenty of room, may well be a...

Whether I know more is questionable at times but here goes :) It's the old style one, the new cage is a big improvement over the original (I know I'm one of those with negative comments about it, this is purely down to the lowering of the harness bar) As for which is the best, how deep are...

I found using a drift/punch through the holes of the bracket and subframe/wishbone along with a bit of swearing worked wonders, used the punch to pull the bracket over the bush, once in place it held pretty well in order to get the bolt back through. Swearing was optional but I find it generally...